I was asked last week to have a conversation about a board I shaped in 1967 when I worked at the Morey-Pope surfboard company.

I really like talking surfboards. So, it was an easy yes for me, even on camera no less. https://www.instagram.com/p/DcRyRBChCFl/ . And this past week end Jesse Towbridge  https://penetrator.surf/ came up to check out my new shaping bay and talk surfboards. All fun stuff.

My wife stumbled across and has shown me a vintage film reel of surfing that was dated 1906. Most likely shot at Waikiki That’s 120 years ago. We don’t think about it much if at all, but surfing has been around for a long time. The interest in surfing has grown so much that now you don’t need to live or go to a beach to surf.

While talking with Jesse the other day the conversation circled into wave pools. How they have developed, gotten better and that they are growing in numbers. I remembered during the late ‘60s the first wave pool, or at least the first I’d heard about was completed… In Tempe Arizona.

Big Surf was a historic waterpark located in Tempe, Arizona, at 1500 N McClintock Dr.  Opened in 1969 and financed by the Clairol Company, it featured the Waikiki Beach Wave Pool, recognized as America's first inland wave pool and designated an ASME Historic Mechanical Engineering Landmark in 2013. 

The park closed permanently after the 2019 season, with its property sold in 2022 for $49 million to a California-based commercial real estate group.  Following the sale, the iconic facility was demolished, leaving the site as a dirt lot.  Today, Big Surf is remembered as a 50-year desert icon that pioneered artificial surfing technology and hosted major cultural events and films.

Films…. like the Classic flick “North Shore”.

I was out Tempe way in the early 70’s with a friend and we went there a couple times and surfed. I think the water slide there was better. But that was then, wave pools now come with real waves. While looking for a place to move I thought maybe we should leave California and go to a place with a wave pool.

One would need to go to the area check out the wave pool as well as the area. Maybe stay for several months to see if you fit the place, or it fits you etc. The way the surf has been here in Ventura this summer season you can begin to wonder if you’d be better off around a wave pool. There has been surf, but the conditions have been poor continually.

Just a thought, and this is just a question. Are the waves in a wave pool really waves? Ocean waves are energy. Created by wind that blows over the ocean surface for a distance long enough to produce waves that can travel thousands of miles before they reach land.

The waves in a pool are generated artificially with mechanical devises. The pool structure and bottom contours are made to enhance the wave shape etc.. Which is all fine. And the development is quite impressive. The ocean waves have their moments and sometimes those moments can be life threatening. Wave pools not so much. But they do produce some really nice-looking waves.

Maybe someday I’ll ride one of those really good waves. Instead of waiting for the perfect conditions to ride some really good wave right here in Ventura.

It’s been a while but it can happen.

D.R.

What's in a Shaping Bay?

I typed that question in a web browser and got this AI generated answer….

A surfboard shaping bay is a dedicated workspace designed for the manual or CNC-based construction of surfboards, providing the necessary dimensions, lighting, and ventilation to handle foam blanks, resins, and dust.  Ideally measuring 15' x 10' x 11', the room typically features blue, green, or black walls to enhance visibility of the white foam and is equipped with fluorescent lights positioned 4–6 inches above the board to highlight surface curves. 

Key components of a functional shaping bay include:

·                        Ventilation: Powerful air conditioning and exhaust systems to remove harmful fumes and micro-particles from fiberglass and resins.

·                        Storage: Wall racks for holding blanks and completed boards, along with shelves for tools like rasps, planers, and sanding blocks. 

·                        Safety: Protective measures such as masks, eye protection, and often a shower or drain system to clean up dust and chemical residues

Of course, I know what a shaping bay is but I thought I’d ask the question.

I made my first surfboard in my early teens in the family garage.

 That’s where my lifelong endeavor of making surfboards began…over 60 years ago. 

Having shaped boards for a number of surfboard labels over the years I’ve worked in some 18 different shaping bays. Some labels you may have heard of like Morey-Pope, William Dennis, Wilderness, Hawaiian Blades, Dick Brewer. Included in the 18 bays I’ve had 7 of my own. 

The bay at Hawaiian Blades, like most I’ve worked in, was part of a larger facility for making surfboards with a laminating room, sanding room, an area to paint in etc. Which is typical of what we call a surfboard factory, the shaping bay being part of a larger facility.

15 years ago, I was putting together the shaping bay at the property where we were flooded. That was a container. A one room set up for shaping and making surfboards. I said in a blog post back then that it may be the last one I ever have. https://drsurfboards.blogspot.com/2011/09/my-first-shaping-shack-was-lean-to.html 

Well…. that one was destroyed, and my wife and I lost our home and property due to major flooding and debris flows starting January 2023.  Three and a half years later we finally found and moved to a place we now call home. 

We moved into the place this past December. On the property is a small barn that will be the location of my new workshop. We've been doing things to the new place since we moved in and the last six weeks, I’ve been putting together my new workshop and shaping bay.

I've got some cement work done and framed up a couple walls. Dry wall and sound board and painting done. I’ve tested the shaping stand set up, lighting, and have been positioning some of tool locations etc. It’s a process, for me at least, because I like everything to have a place and be in its place. So, the complete set up takes time and effort. 

The Shop will have a separate work area alongside the shaping area. So, I’m pretty stoked having it completed soon and spending time doing what l like to do…. Making surfboards.

D.R.

Earlier this month I met up with Mario and his MP Stradivarius. A surfboard I shaped some 56 - 57 years ago.

The Stradivarius had a very brief run from late 1968 to early 1969 between the end of the Tracker and beginning of the Camel production run that got started in Ernest in ’69 when Morey-Pope moved their work shop from Front St. in Ventura to a much larger facility in Saticoy, a small town about 9 miles east away from the Front St. shop. The Front St. shop turned into their sales shop only.

I’ve always remembered the Stradivarius model. And thought it was one of the better boards that MP made during that short period through the few months before moving to Saticoy.

Mario lives up north and mentioned he was coming down my way with his board and we could meet up while he was visiting. We met at Ventura Surf Shop which gave me the opportunity to put the board in the shaping bay and give it a good look over. 

What a nice surfboard! Built during what we now call the transition period when surfboard design was moving from the long board era to short boards. Mario’s board was most likely one of the early ones made being 8’8” in length. I envisioned seeing a shorter board maybe 8 foot or so. I didn’t remember making the Stradivarius in a longer length, as the Trackers were being made in the mid 7-foot range at the end of its run… but there it was.

In my head I still see the board as I walked up to it set on one of the short worktables in the covered outside area of VSS. And ran my hands over the board, gave it a look over, picked it up and carried it into the shaping bay. In the bay I checked the rocker and put one of my rail profiles over the rail. I didn’t know really what to expect the rocker would be but was happy to see it was nice and neutral. Similar nose rocker to its predecessor the V Bottom and a bit more tail rocker than the V Bottom.

The rail profile fit quite well over the rail with just a small, short discrepancy of maybe a 1/16 of a inch in part of the half curve off the rail apex. That same profile fit very well over on old Tracker I had in my workshop before it got flooded. And is the same profile I use for a majority of the boards I do now.  

What would I do different if I made the Stradivarius now? Not much…. I didn’t get a chance to map the board but from memory maybe just a slight change in the board profile below center and put an edge in the tail up about 18”.

I’ve seen a few of the old boards I’ve done over the years. There are a few one offs that stick in memory that I think if I say now, I’d be embarrassed if I saw them. But for sure The Stradivarius was one of the boards from my past that is really nice. I can’t take credit for the design that was a Tom Morey thing, and a good one.

I’m stoked to have had a hand in bringing it to fruition way back when. And a big Thank You to Mario for taking the time to meet up and give me a chance to look into the past.

D.R. 

Mario's Stradivarius also posted a couple of posts ago.

This one was pulled off the Web. A shorter version with nice lines and color.

There weren't many of these made so are a rare find. Not few images on the Web.

 

 In memory of John Peck.

A David Puu image in Baja.

The first I knew of John Peck was maybe 1964 in my mid teens seeing him on a Surfer Magazine cover and when I got a chance to see a surf film during that time with stand out footage of him surfing.

Little did I know then or even dream I would eventually not only meet him but get a job shaping his signature model surfboard three years later. At Morey-Pope surfboards in Ventura.

John was a champion surfer. But when he’d come around the Morey-Pope shop you wouldn’t know it. He seemed sure of himself but was kind and easy going. He had time to talk and didn’t seem to be bothered by a guy that was just 18 years old. He was comfortable to be around.

John thought of others, not himself… an example for me was when he wanted me to meet him at a Huntington Beach surf meet. He wanted to introduce me to his friends, the big names in surfing that would be there. It certainly wasn’t something I thought about, but, he thought it would be good for me. 

Then there is the story of a surfing event in Peru that John was a part of.  While there he met a young Peruvian kid that was a pretty good surfer. At the time of them meeting the kid didn’t have a surfboard, so before John left to return to the States he gave the kid his surfboard. The surfboard he gave him, John told me, was one of the best boards he ever had.

From late 1967 to early ’68 I didn’t see John. From stories I had heard and a few conversations with him, it seems he went through some wild times. We reconnected in the summer of 2002 when he was in Ventura for a surf meet.

A few years later while living on Kauai we met up. During that time I did a little carpentry work for him at his house in Kekaha. He wanted to pay me. I told him I didn’t do the work to get paid so “don’t worry about it.” So what did he do? After talking to my wife Suzi, who adored him, he bought us a gift for our house..

Suzi and John

We talked about making boards in the shed at his place in Kekaha. However I ended up returning to Ventura late 2005. To me, John seemed a bit disappointed when I told him we were going to return to the main land, which meant we wouldn’t be doing any surfboards. But, the following year I did a batch of 26 Penetrators for him through a shop I was working for at the time. John, happily, got one of those boards for himself.

When I was invited to be in a shape off event at the Board Room Show in Ventura John came up to the event to give me some support. And, the year before he came up to the show and hung with me during and after the show. I didn’t ask him to, he just came because he wanted to be there for me.

John with me in my show booth

John, his longtime friend Reno Abellira and myself. at the Show

After our property was devastated in the January storms of 2023 my friend and former partner Bill “Blinky” Hubina put together a surfboard raffle to raise some money for my wife and I to help with what we were going through after the storms. Blinky suggested I shape a Penetrator. So I asked John if it was ok that we used his Penetrator logo on the board. Not only did he say yes, but took the time and made the effort to put the labels in the mail so I received them within a day. The funds Suzi and I got from that raffle was a big help to us.  And John helped make it special.

The raffle board and the winner Ray

John Peck, a peaceful, kind and caring soul made a difference in my life. It’s hard to imagine my life with out him in it.

He will always be remembered. Rest in peace my friend.

D.R.

Today from the beach I saw one of the local guys that I see pretty much every morning at the Point pull off a really nice move.

 As he was paddling out he quickly turned around does a dicey late entry drop into a set wave that was a little over head high. He made the entry reached the bottom turned and set up a nice long ride almost to the beach where he pulled out.

I still have what I saw in my head. And, it probably won’t be forgotten for quite a while. I’m sure there are other sports where you see an amazing play that you remember for a long time. But, being a surfer and knowing how difficult a move like what I saw is….. it leaves a lasting impression.

When I finally paddled out and saw Bill, the guy that made that move, I didn’t think to say anything about it. But I plan to the next time I see him. That may very well be tomorrow morning.

Over the years there have been small groups of people that surf at close to the same time each day. Of course it depends on a persons schedule, but if your schedule is close to or the same as some others then you end up seeing them and become surfing friends.

A surfing friend is someone you see at the beach and in the water regularly over time. You very well may not know much about the people you see other than the car they drive, kind of surfboard they ride etc. But, you may spend a couple hours in the water right along side them on a constant basis. Doing what? Having fun.

Surfing by yourself is fine….. Like being the only person in the lineup. Or, being in a crowed line up and not know anyone around you. But surfing with people you know is fun. You see them get good rides and hopefully they see you get some good ones too. Sharing the experiences leaves you with good feelings and good memories.

Over time the local crew will go through changes. A couple faces may fade then new ones get worked in to the crew and it goes on. Today I saw a guy that was one of the local crew, at the beach every morning. But he moved to Florida a year or 2 ago. But he’s here for a visit, and, in the water surfing. Just like old times.

There is a gal that is one of the crew but earlier in the year she suffered a physical problem and hasn’t been surfing. It’s sad when you know someone that has a regular routine you’re familiar with that gets interrupted.

When I was young I don’t remember thinking the things I’ve said here. But I’ve been surfing a long time and have memories, Making memories with others is a good thing. Especially, if you surf…. surfing memories.

One of my memories below, a picture sent to me earlier this month. I shaped this board 57 years ago. Always liked that particular model from Morey-Pope.

It’s in good condition for it’s age.

D.R.

 

 I was at a get together with some friends a few weeks ago and while there one of the guys asked me if I copy boards... I said no….  Then asked what he had in mind.

He got his boards from one of the local shapers in the area who unfortunately has passed away. One of his favorite boards was getting pretty worn and he wanted a new one. So, I told him I’d help him if he would like.

It is possible to machine scan a board these days but for just a one off not something one would do. Maybe for a board you plan on making 100’s of yes, but just 1?  no.

So what to do?? I know the person that would like another board that the shaper did, and the shaper he got his boards from I also knew. That particular shaper and I once had shaping bays right next to each other some years back. Well, we decided it would be fine to go after replicating the board.  

I got the board to replicate and mapped it. Mapping is a process of measuring the rocker, outline and thickness of a surfboard from nose to tail. Once the numbers are documented then you can determine what blank will be needed and if it will need a different rocker glued into it than what is available stock, for starters.

With the boards pertinent info, you can hand shape a board to those numbers or build a cut file for a CNC machine to machine the blank and then do the finish shaping work. I went with a cut file, for a few reasons one being I lost my shaping bay…. And don’t have a place for another one yet. You tend to be more comfortable in your own shaping bay for the critical work of replicating a surfboard.

Even making a surfboard prototype, riding it when completed and determining it’s a board you’d like to work into a model, mapping the original so it can be replicated and or make adjustments to the overall shape is essential. It takes the guess work out of the process. 

Running 2” masking tape down the center of the board and writing the numbers on the tape is what I typically do to my own boards to document the dimensions. If you are so inclined, you can input the numbers into a surfboard design app. and generate a cut file for future use if not to have an electronic copy of the board for safe keeping. Hard copies can be lost. Like my data book being destroyed when my property was flooded a couple years ago.

All was not lost thanks to a folder in my computer of electronic files of pretty much all of my surfboards.

D.R.

What do you do when there is a prolonged flat spell?   Dream!

We’ve had several days of no surf. When talking with friends and they say they're at the beach I say, “you mean Lake Pacific?”

So, I got to looking at some surf pics from the DR Surfboards achieves

It is said that a picture is worth a thousand words. So, the 7 pictures below would make this post 7000 words to read. That's a lot to read for one blog post..... It's easier to just look at the pictures.

What I think is amazing about this image is the full weight of the rider is on the nose and the nose is easily about 12" above the wave face.  

A little bit of spray off this turn back.

Some guys can get their surfboard completely out of the water and not fall.

A lot more spray off this turn back.

The board this rider is on is 6'3". the water trail off the rail of his bottom turn looks to be twice that. Say 12 Feet. Nice driving bottom turn!

Another turn back spray. 

And... another nose ride.

If you can’t see waves at the beach, you can look at pictures of waves. 

D.R.