My story post 29, or what I remember about the winter of 1969.

I moved to Rincon valley and joined up with Wilderness in spring of ’69 but the winter of ’69 was pretty insane. We had a lot of surf that winter and some very serious storms come through Ventura.

What the storms did to the local surf breaks was pretty amazing. As I remember it, there was a big rain at the end of January and one near the end of February. The first rain deposited so much sand on Ventura point that there were literally no cobble stone rocks exposed from the mouth of the Ventura River to the pier.

The affect on the surf at the point was significant. While it lasted the new sand point provided by the storm made one long continuing wave from the top of the point all the way down inside. Usually there are a number of sections, sometimes make able sometimes not, but this new sand point had a wave that was as perfect as any I’d ever seen. Catch the wave at the top of the point set your edge for a driving bottom turn climb and drop, turn back, bottom turn again… repeat, repeat.

The other spot that got dramatically altered… for a short time, was Santa Clara River mouth. Again so much sand was deposited that a very long sand point formed on the south side of the river. The surf there was as good as any point wave on the map. It took some work to get to it because you had to cross the river, it got almost waist deep in spots but on the other side was the gold. I got down there a couple times with the local crew when in the afternoon Santa Anna winds had died down enough. Mild off shore winds and roping long rights for a good quarter mile…. what fun that was.

As more rain came things got pretty ugly. Eventually so much debris washed down the Ventura river and got deposited on the beach that it became impossible to even walk to the waters edge along the point. The water along the point was one giant mass of floating drift wood that stretched half way to the end of the pier. The Santa Clara river actually change its course, turned toward Ventura and ended up busting through the Ventura Marina washing the boats that were docked along the south end of the marina out to sea. Then the surf deposited the boats along the beach below south jetty.

We’ve had big rains a number of times since then that have made for great surfing. But, there has never been anything like the storms of 1969 yet.

D.R.

Storm surf at the Ventura Pier.

While in Wave Front Surf Shop one day this week I took notice of a new Boardworks model that was white with a faux wood stringer painted on it. Boardworks of course being a molded board it’s usually pretty easy to tell them apart from the traditional foam and fiberglass boards, but the white with a faux wood stringer board could fool you for a minute. I find it curious that surfboards that aren’t made with traditional materials and methods still follow the traditional colors and lines.

Seeing that board and then receiving some pictures from my e-mail friend Barry of Dale Velzy got me to thinking again about the future of surfboards. So this may go along with my post of 9/30/07 here.

What we now call the Surf Board Industry had its beginnings just 50 or so years ago. And the number of guys that are still at it that started with either wood boards or the early foam boards is a very small piece of the overall builders pie. Shaping a board out of a big block of foam, learning the process by trial and error and looking up to those that did it before and learning from them is the tradition of shaping and making surfboards.

This tradition is very important to surfing history. It is core to what surfing is about. And as more and more years are added to surfing history or, as surfing gets older so too do the remaining shapers that were brought up in the tradition get older. There will come a time when they are only in pictures. The boards they made will remain though, held by those that honor the tradition.

The late Dale Velzy in his shaping room.

Added 3/17/08

Some may not see the point in the shaping tradition, and that’s fine, but the fact that it’s possible with your hands and eyes to sculpt a finely foiled and balanced object to ride waves on is really pretty incredible. Well, with the help of a computer a machine can do that! That’s correct, and any bone head can be shown in short order how to finish the machined blank off. And there are those in China and Thailand that finish blanks off all day long day in and day out that know nothing about the surfboard dynamic. And that’s called shaping?

An interesting side note…. I was acquainted with this guy some years ago that was a pattern maker. He worked for a big sports equipment company. His job was to make the patterns for the wood drivers in a set of gulf clubs. The company had very sophisticated computer controlled machines to make the patterns but they found the end result wasn’t good enough… it needed to be tweaked by hand. The human hand and eye did a better job. If I remember right they ended up ditching the machine process altogether and my friend ended up making the patterns from scratch.

The hand shaped tradition.

D.R.

It’s curious when you meet someone and it turns out that your paths never crossed but had been very close parallel lines.

One of the older guys that brings boards by the shop for laminating, Chuck Vinson, spent a few hours at the shop doing some special resin color and line work on one of his boards this week. We met last year when he first came to inquire about getting some glass work done and when he introduced himself mentioned that he was a laminator at MP during the Saticoy days. So we started chatting about when he worked at MP… he started right after I left… and what he did after that.

Turns out that after he left MP he went up to Santa Barbara and started a shop there, as well, eventually went to the North Shore and worked there. On the North Shore he worked for Lightning Bolt. The board he was working on at the shop was a Lightning Bolt replica for wetsand. While on the North Shore he worked and roomed with one of my high school surf buddies, his name was Wayne. Wayne’s mom used to take us to surf that I mentioned in this blog entry.

So Chuck is a guy that started working on surfboards when he was in high school, like me. Then works at MP only starts working there shortly after I leave. Then goes up to Santa Barbara and starts a shop. I worked at Wilderness in Santa Barbara. Then goes to Hawaii and ends up rooming with one of my high school surf buddies. Our paths finally cross almost 40 years later when he comes by my shop last year. I enjoyed reminiscing with him.

The Reminiscing kept going too because Nat Young did a presentation and book signing at Ventura Surf Shop Friday 3/7. Because Nat and Mike Cundith were buddies he used to come stay at the Rincon Valley ranch house when he was in California. I hadn’t seen him since August of 1969 when he came to the house, so I made sure I was at the event. The presentation was great and the book ‘The Complete History of Surfing’ is excellent.

D.R.

A few random thoughts on what we’ve come to call the short board revolution, which took place between late 1967 and 1970-71. Though surfboards had evolved before then and evolved after.

How things changed is a matter of personal history, that is, personal to the individual. What I recollect and what others remember may have similarities but not quite be the same. As well what was happening in the Ventura Santa Barbara area was not the same thing happening in San Diego or Santa Cruz areas.

In Ventura and Santa Barbara there were a small number of board builders and shapers. I just happened to be one of them. Surfing was changing and some guys fell out of the business because they didn’t fit into or follow the change. For instance in Ventura Tom Hale stopped making boards. I do know that he was doing some laminating in 1968 for Morey-Pope. The MP shop on Front street could not produce all the McTavish Trackers that Richard Deese and I shaped so some of the lam work was sourced to Hale. When MP stopped production of the Tracker and moved out to Saticoy as far as I know Hale stopped board building.

Though as some of the builders fell off they were replaced by knew guys entering the surfboard crafting thing. Even still there was only a small handful of guys making and shaping from 1968 to 1970-71. As well the big labels didn’t start to drop off until about 1970 anyway. In ’69 MP was making hundreds of boards a month. So were labels like Dewey Weber with boards like the Weber Ski. So there were labels keeping shapers employed.

But for sure as the established labels began taking a beating there were guys that made surfboards that ended up with out a job. And if you wanted to make surfboards you needed to follow the trends. If you were one of the guys making the trends ok but, if not, you had to follow or be out of work. As an example… I liked and surfed the Greenough style board but by ’71 a lot of guys wanted flat bottomed down railed boards. If I didn’t shape the flat bottom down rail I just didn’t have any work.

Having my start as a production shaper in 1967 and having steady work for the following 3 years pretty much right through the big change was great but by ’71 the whole surfboard making thing got rough for a number of board builders. The surfboard business got very fragmented and very localized.

What was…. a number of larger established labels run very business like with employees and fairly nice stores, which by the way sold almost only surfboards. And what was changed to... an underground type thing with small local shops that catered to a local clientele almost exclusively, and a lot of shops weren’t run very business like at all.

D.R.

In the shaping bay circa 1970