Sunday, March 31, 2024

Where I live, Ventura County, has right around 42 miles of coastline. Are there places to surf along the 42 miles? Absolutely.

Coming up the coast from just a short distance past the L.A, Ventura County line is a surf spot called County Line. It’s a very popular destination to surf for both L.A. surfers and surfers that live in the east south east inland area of Ventura County.

But County Line is just the first of…. well, I don’t know how many places there are to surf along those 42 miles of the coast. I’ve surfed many but not surfed them all. That could be a fun exercise. Go to every place there is you could surf along the 42 miles of coastline that fits inside Ventura County California.

I’ll tell you what…. You’d find some really good ones.

I know of one that can handle size and produces spitting barrels at size. I know of another that can offer up such a long line your legs laterally will tell you they’ve had enough. And, you’ll either straighten out or pull out because you don’t think you can make another turn off the bottom without collapsing. Honestly for all the surfers in the world few experience that sensation.

There is a spot at the county line of Ventura and Santa Barbara.  At the end of the  42 miles of coast line from the spot called “County Line”.  Speaking of the world of surfers….   This spot is known the world over and is a destination spot for surfers that travel to California to find surf. It has a name but is often called the Queen of the Coast. Why? Because it is the Crown of the surf spots of California.

I was recently told that a certain surf magazine publication turned away a story about Morey-Pope. The  60’s surfboard company from Ventura  and it’s very significant contribution to surfing and it’s history…..  My response was to say… “Typically the Ventura area and into Santa Barbara is mostly overlooked by the more populated southern end of the California coast surfing community.”  So it wasn’t really a surprise to me. But sad.

The city of Ventura is a beach town. The street to enter down town Ventura is California Street. California Street is just 3 and a half blocks long. It starts at the beach and goes those 3.5 blocks straight up to a majestic looking building that is the Ventura City Hall. Climb the steps to the front doors to City Hall turn around and look back down California Street. You’ll be looking a the start of a surf spot best known as “C” Street, short for “California Street”

Keeping in mind that surfing is the state sport of California… I think The City of Ventura is the only place in California that the City center looks straight at a surf spot. Just a short 14 miles up the road from “C” Street is the “Queen” of the coast. From there back down to “C” street there are 3 other fine point breaks. “C” Street being one of them. Someone tell me out side of the area of coast called The Ranch , which is all private property, is there any other 14 mile stretch of coast in California that has 4 very surf able point breaks?

How many thousands of surfers have developed their skills at those surf spots? How many surfers travel specifically to Ventura to surf those spots?  Plenty!

Ventura has largely contributed and is still contributing to surfing and its history. Morey-Pope was a part of that contribution during the earlier days of surfing.   

D.R.

If and when you find this spot looking like this and you pick off one of those waves... It can lead to wobbly legs as mentioned above.

 

Thursday, February 29, 2024

You may have heard the saying “only a surfer knows the feeling”. I’ve said it at least a few times in the pages of this blog.

As we grow in our surfing abilities from the hours and hours spent in the water… or because you can surf in a wave pool now I should say ocean. Surfers all share experiences that only surfers experience. Surfing is a difficult activity, the excitement, fun, disappointments, challenges and even fears encountered in the ocean are all shared by surfers. So in that sense surfers are like a community.

Sure we are all different individually but the shared experiences make us surfers unique. As an example.. I live and surf (for the most part) in Ventura California. I can go to San Diego to surf and may strike up friendships with surfers there because we are surfers. A surfer can go anywhere in the world where there is surf and the same thing can and will happen… that’s community.

I’ve recently had a very kind and powerful experience from the surfing community which I talked about in my last post. The raffle that was put together at Ventura Surf Shop for me and my wife to raise some funds to help us with the damaging affects to our home from flooding last year. A different kind of experience than surfing but coming from surfers, some I know and many I’ve not met... from the surfing community.

The kindness and generosity felt is not easy to put into words. Overwhelming is one word. Heartfelt is another. I’ll add very heartfelt. Saying thank you seems a weak response, but I don’t know of other words that convey Thank You with deep heartfelt meaning.

So I’ll say this, a heart felt Thank You to all and every one that participated. Our ( my wife and my ) stress level was eased  for sure. And again thank you Blinky for making it all happen.

So Suzi my wife, reached into the bowl of raffle tickets. The phone number on the ticket was called…. And we had a winner.

D.R.

Ray our winner with his new Penetrator. Ray, if you see this, sorry I was not able to meet you when you came out to pick up your prize. Not knowing when you might come I got stuck prepping sand bags, preparing for the storm that was coming.

 

Wednesday, January 31, 2024

My story number 59.

Last January I posted about the storm that inundated my home and work shop. We had 2 more heavy storms that continued making things worse.

https://drsurfboards.blogspot.com/2023/01/my-surfboard-work-shed-i-call-it-work.html

Well, Blinky thought it would be nice to help my wife and I with some of our expenses and asked if I would shape a Penetrator for Ventura Surf Shop that he would but up for raffle to raise some funds for us.

Ventura Surf shop donated the blank for me to shape… my work shop being destroyed Scott Larese  ( Larese Lamination ) donated the lamination. I asked John Peck if he would provide one of his Penetrator labels for the board and got help from Silkworm screen printing with dialing in the label to integrate it with my label. I’ve made plenty of Penetrators over the years but this one is a one off because of the labels…. A rare and special board. As well, the reason why it was made.

So, The week before Christmas just past the board was completed and Blinky started the raffle. Now all 200 raffle tickets have been sold and we’ll be drawing the winning ticket in a couple days.

Thank you to all who came out to participate. I’m overwhelmed with your generosity. We have a lot to do still to bring our property back. The expenses on having a home we can’t live in but still keep up with utilities, insurance and taxes on top of paying rent for temporary housing is not easy, it’s truly humbling to be on the receiving end of everyone’s help and kindness.

Thank you to Blinky for putting the raffle together and all your help.

D.R.