Notes on the maiden voyage of the twin fin hull.

The surf was not really what I was planning on for the first surf on this board. But, the crowd was light with clean conditions and some shoulder high waves… the opportunity seemed good enough. So yesterday I decided to give it a go.

The fins on the board have no cant or toe so right off you don’t feel the usual fin drag. And because of the shape and placement of the fins the board has little drive off the fins… that was planned.

Once I found my feet and had a wave with a long enough wall to ride down to engage the rail then I found the board to work as I had hoped. Fluid drive down the line and velvet movement from rail to rail with no loss of speed. I found a few waves to get a half way decent turn back on which went well but never had enough wave face or power for a good strong redirect… it redirected fine but would like more water for the moves.

All in all I’m pleased. The board paddles great, catches waves well and has a really good feel in the water and in the surf.

What is the difference between a regular single fin hull and the twin fin? The normal hull is a rail machine and utilizes the fin for punch and drive. One of the best things in riding one is the amount of weight you can push into a bottom turn, driving way out on the bottom of a wave and laying as much as you’ve got into a turn. The dynamic of rail, fin a full weight is power. As the board comes out of the turn and you un-weight you are sling shot down the line. The fin dynamic is changed with the twin fin. The flex and drive off the fin is not there. Well… there is drive off the fins but it comes when the outside fin releases, so the power in the turn seems to have a very fluid feel. Instead of a sling shot you receive an engaged and steady thrust.

On initial go out I’ll say this board has a smooth feel and almost effortless engagement. I also think it will work best in waves with 5 to 7 foot faces… We shall see.

D.R.

Surfing is really pretty incredible and as it’s said… ‘only a surfer knows the feeling’.

As long as I’ve been surfing I still think it’s absolutely incredible! Standing at waters edge and watching waves rolling across and down a shore line and thinking it would be possible to swim out to the breaking waves and stroke into them and hence slide down and across the wave face? How nuts is that? Or, design a plank out of something and work your way out to the breaking waves lying on that plank. Then paddle into the wave, have the wave pick you up so you start sliding down its face?

It’s all amazing, and on top of it all we’ve designed boards so you can actually stand on them while sliding down the face of a wave, maneuver around, up and down, over, under and even inside a breaking wave. The accomplished surfers make it look easy but, it’s not. It takes a ton of effort even to just catch a wave let alone stand up on a surfboard. However, once you’ve put in the effort and are able to feel the sensation of riding a wave you can get completely hooked. It’s really challenging and very rewarding, physically demanding and very satisfying, on top of being great fun and one of the best forms of recreation.

Today I went for an afternoon surf at the point. There were a number of people in the water learning to surf…. Some maybe out for their first time. Made for a slalom course for awhile, until a couple set waves cleaned them all out. But I’ll tell you what, they all seemed to be trying and they all had smiles on their faces, they were having fun. So was I!

D.R.

Fun = Travis Riley on a small wave dancing, on a surfboard or on water?

What if your never tried something different?

Having a one board quiver was pretty normal when surfing was younger. For one thing most of the labels made only a few, if that, models and, if you didn’t buy a board off the rack the board you bought was custom. It would last you a year or two you’d sell it and go buy another.

When surfing was younger there were long boards and then there were long boards. Only at the time we called them surfboards. Or you could look at it this way… you could have a long board say 10 foot and you could have a short board…. say 9’3. Aside from the length the two boards would be similar. 50/50 rails maybe even the same glassed on fin. But really most everyone that surfed had one surfboard, not many had more than one.

Theoretically if you had a board in the sixties, let’s say before boards went shorter, you could still have that same board and still be riding it. Of course to avoid embarrassment you would have had to surf somewhere all buy yourself between 1968 and about y2k but, lets pretend…. There’s a guy out there that’s still riding the board he got in 1965… and you’re the guy.

Hopefully you’ve got the board wired by now. What do you see when you paddle into a waist high wave? What do you think of doing when you paddle into a head high wave? How do you maneuver your way along a wave with a 10 foot or better face? There are guys, and gals all around you with different equipment but you are riding the same board in all conditions. You’ve watched surfboards change and surfing abilities progress. How much do you think your surfing would have progressed if you rode the same surfboard year after year?

There is nothing wrong with having a one board quiver. For some it may be all they can afford. But it is possible to change and try something different after a time. Why? It surly can help progress your surfing… dare to be different, or at least try something different.

D.R.

Twin fin hull prototype

My story and the classics.

I’m listed in the Surfboard collectors guide book as one of the shapers from Morey-Pope that shaped both the Penetrator and Blue Machine so the word is out and has been for some years.

So, from time to time I get asked if I still make or will make the MP boards like I shaped back in the sixties… Fact… Those 2 boards were only made between 1966 and 1967 though I’ve been making them off and on for 26 years now. Are they the same as they were in the sixties? Yes and no. They are the same outline, foil and rail line but nicely refined.

It all started when long boards began their reemergence. Almost immediately I was asked by guys here in Ventura if I could or would make them one of the old MP style boards. And why not? they were great boards and I know how. So I did and have been sought out to make them for guys from all over. Staying conscious of the collectors market I’ve never perused any big marketing ideas and made them mostly by request.

I would like to continue making these reissues or tribute boards pretty much the way I have been, quietly and without fanfare for individuals that are interested but over the last couple years when asked if I’d make one sometimes I've declined. As well, last year I took the Machine listing off my surfboards page on my web site. I’d like to explain why but won’t….

There really is no reason to advertise my reissues, they are very special boards with great history and those that are interested can and will continue to request them. And here is a special thanks to those that have.

D.R.

The first guy to request a Penetrator reissue… Jim Harasta at Malibu in the ‘80’s
Photo by Tom Behm

John Peck riding a Penetrator I made for him in ‘06

Photo by David Puu

Addendum May 13, 2009

I am now once again making signature John Peck Penetrators. With one or two stock Penetrators at Wave Front Surf Shop in Ventura and orders on request.