I’ve mentioned how moms play an important part in the life of a young surfer here. 

I’ve mentioned at the end of this post how my mom would get frustrated when she found sticky resin on the phone. Even still she was happy with me and my surfboard thing. 

I mentioned how my mom was worried about my surfing big surf here.

I know without my moms support when I was a kid, and even later when I was on my own I would have never gone very far with surfing and surfboards.  I remember talking on the phone with her once when I’d gotten really sick. She said she worried that maybe the chemicals…resin and stuff,  that I worked with might be taking a toll on me… I was nineteen. 

She always showed interest in what I was doing. Even though mostly what I did was surf and make surfboards. She was such a good lady and a great mother to me and my sisters and brothers.  She was up there in years and getting frail the last couple years.

She passed away yesterday, Saturday June 23 about 1:00 p.m.  The best mom I could have ever had.  You will be missed mom… rest in peace.

D.R.

Years ago now but, my mom on the left, me on the right with my sisters and brother and one of my sisters friends ready to go on a two week outing to Newport Beach. It was fine with my mom for me to bring my surfboard... somehow strapped to the top of the car with all the other stuff.  

Another year and another week of camping and surf.  Except for the first day when the overcast sky didn’t burn off until mid afternoon, and one night that got pretty cool the weather was great and we had surf the whole week. What’s become the annual week of camping and surf that this year started last Sunday and finished Friday was great!

My son always likes taking a half dozen boards to play around with and this year was no different. He surfed his twin keel fish, a 40 year old single fin hull and my 7’0” two finned hull as well, taking his daughter for a spin on the Tip Tool. I followed and the last two days got off my stubbie to surf a Tip Tool and my 7’0” two finned hull.  I haven’t surfed the Tip Tool for a couple years and haven’t surfed the two finned hull for at least 4 years.  But, when you have all day to surf… you can mix it up.

D.R.

Sand Castles and Surf

Son with daughter hanging 10 fingers