Sunday, August 24, 2014

Getting skunked is no fun.

How about when you can't sleep at night thinking that there is going to be good surf in the morning with some size for a change. Getting over head surf in Ventura during the summer months.... doesn't happen much.

So those hurricanes spinning into our swell window this past 8 - 10 days had promise. Forecasts were predicting the good stuff. I surfed Thursday mid day and it seemed as if the swell was starting to hit. Granted the sets were about head high, still more than we've had for awhile it got me thinking early morning would be really good.

Serious, I was remembering past good summer swells so much I couldn't sleep Thursday night. Finally it was a little after 5 a.m. and I got up, fussed about and left the house at the but crack of dawn. With anticipation I drove down to the point pulled into a parking space, jumped out of my van, walked up to the beach, watched for a couple minutes and all I saw was lumpy waist high 3 wave sets.

What??? I watched some more.... inconsistent waist high max, 3 wave sets. I walked up the point and checked Fair Grounds... like it would be any different up there. Walked back to my van and left.

You know sometimes when the morning is coming off a shallow low tide and the wind doesn't back down until a late hour at night there is a little sickness on the surface in the morning. And south swells don't always show well on low tides.

Sure enough when my son got home around 5 and reported that the surf was pretty darn good through the afternoon... yeah, so the incoming tide cleaned up the surface, and the swell showed better with the higher mid day tide.  I was even more disappointed, because I didn't get any.

Only a surfer knows the feeling.

D.R.


Sunday, August 10, 2014

This  week I've been working on the blues. 1 blue opaque bottom lam, and one blue tint reverse lam. And, though the Ventura Fair has been going this week, making the point difficult or close to impossible to get to, and makes you want to sing the blues. I got a little of both south swells... Monday and Friday. Good fun surf always cures the blues.

D.R.