Sunday, July 22, 2012

I surfed “C” Street or The Point, a few times this past week. We had a small tropical south swell that when hitting the point can be pretty lined up, and actually wall off and close out.

The first day I surfed this week I passed a friend coming in from surfing as I was going out. She said “it’s just closing out”. And it was for the most part.  There were a few waves that would hold up but, most were pretty racy and not holding up.

The tropical swells have a steep east slant to them so that’s why they line up so much and as I’ve mentioned before the point isn’t what it used to be because of the revetment used when the 'powers that be' developed that area of Ventura beach.

Before the development there was actually a point. Not much of one now because the revetment has held in the sand and changed the overall configuration of the beach from Figaroa St. to the first jetty.  A new inside sand bar could develop but so far… not.

D.R.


The point shape as of today.

The point shape some 70 years ago.


Sunday, July 15, 2012

I made a custom H2 mini for Mitch Bloom. It’s a short one… 5’2, with twin keel glass on fins.  After riding the board a couple times he called to tell me how it went.  His words “ it’s like a little magic carpet”. 

Funny how sometimes in conversation words just fall together. I think the H2 has a new name…. The Magic Carpet.

D.R.