Thursday, April 30, 2020


Caution, post may be controversial....

First there was this.


Then we got this.

As well as this at the stairs to the beach at the point

Make sure you don’t sit down.

Surfers have always been  pretty independent, and felt pretty free to go surf even if it meant going to great lengths to get to where the surf is. And when told you couldn’t surf a particular place it seemed there were always those that did it anyway even if there were consequences. In the sixties Trestles was off limits but guys would find there way there and sometimes get caught, have their boards confiscated and face the military.

Seeing really good surf and being told “no you can’t surf that” is really hard for the surfer to work though. I saw a short video of the standup paddle guy that got in trouble for surfing Malibu recently when the beaches of L.A. were closed. He was going down the line on a racy shoulder high wave with not another person in the water and what looked like 3 or 4 waves stacked behind the one he was riding. Only a surfer knows the feeling of seeing good surf and not being able to surf it. From my perspective no one else even understands.

Also from my perspective… surfing is a very healthy activity on a numbers of fronts aside from being outside in the sun and the exercise. Wanting to pursue a health activity that is an individual activity in a city like Ventura having a population of 109,000 with 37 confirmed cases of a particular sickness and being told not to? BTW that's .033%, a very small number. I don’t understand, but that’s me, the independent surfer.

I guess I was lucky, I went surfing the last 2 mornings. The beaches were opened in Ventura a week or so ago. But, not sure yet, they may be closed again.

D.R.