Continuing on… about the 8th grade story and my
friend Jim. I really don’t know why he decided I was ok and if anyone ever gave
me a hard time about being a surfer guy to let him know.
Maybe it was because his older brother thought my older
sister was hot. Or maybe it was because I was a surfer and not one of the guys
that just talked like a surfer and wore surfer clothes, you know, like the
surfer clothes mentioned in this post.
We were in wood shop together. I made the fin for my
surfboard in woodshop. So Jim knew I had a surfboard, but that doesn’t mean I
actually surfed. But maybe my sister
told his brother that I went surfing every Saturday in Santa
Monica … oh and her boyfriend was a surfer too. Then Jim’s older brother told him that my
sister said I actually did surf and “ dang, she has a boyfriend that goes to a
different school and he surfs too”.
Who knows… it’s all speculation.
The toughest part about being a surfer for me back then
wasn’t that some greaser guy might choose me off, nah, it was those hot fall
days. You’re stuck in school, it’s
hotter than blazes and all you can think about is how nice it probably is at
the beach. I didn’t live at the beach..
so it was no fun being land locked.
Later when I was doing Ventura
College those hot fall days weren’t
so bad. If I was stuck with classes at
least I could run down to the beach when they were over. Since it’s only a 10
minute drive from the College to the Point.
If I had an iphone back then and could look at a beach cam
on a hot fall day while being stuck in school?
Crazy, I would have gone crazy.
D.R.