As a teenager my parents would say
to me “don’t think you’re going to be a beach bum and surf all the time. Find
yourself something worth while that will make you a living.” They supported me
in my surfing and surfboard stuff but didn’t think surfing would stay popular
like it was when I was a kid in the 1960’s.
Little did we know back then that
some 55 years later surfing would become the State of California’s
office state sport? This year in August “Gov. Jerry Brown signed legislation Monday
that enshrines surfing in the state’s code.” .. that from a story in the LA
times.
I didn’t even know this had happened until a
couple weeks ago, being uninvolved in things like news and surf media. My
extent with the industry is I make surfboards and surf. Now that I know this I’ve been thinking how
surfing has not only grown but grown up as well. It’s not even close to the
teenage fad thing of the 60’s. Now it’s a multi billion dollar world wide sport
and industry.
Though my parents have passed it
would be fun to sit with them now and say “who would’ve thought this would be
surfing?… a state sport!”
D.R.