I had a conversation with long time local Ventura board builder Stan Fuji this past week. We usually talk surfboards when we see each other and this time was no different.

Stan put out the question.. “What aspect of a surfboard shape do you feel is the most important?”  We hit on rail apex, outlines, rocker etc. Stan mentioned rocker as being critical over rail shapes and outline. I agreed and suggested as far as outline is concerned that bumps and lumps didn’t matter because we’ve been putting bumps, wings in outlines for decades. As well there is a surfboard outline that is the shape of a peanut.

As far as bumps and lumps… once a surfboard gets ridden enough the decks get foot wells and dents from regular use and the boards still ride fine. Stan mentioned bottom contours would effect a boards performance and I said yes but to me foam distribution may play the biggest over all part of a boards ultimate behavior.

How much foam and where / how it is all placed throughout the board is pretty critical to how a board will perform.  Starting there adding rocker curve and how that moves along the length of the board. Outline will have an impact on how the board fits in the wave face. Rail apex impacts how the board will behave on the wave face. Bottom contours for where water flow is released along with the rail lines.

One more critical element… the fin, or fins. Once you have the complete package, the fin or fins, shape, placement can literally make or break how your favorite surfboard performs. So if a board is not working right for you don’t toss it until you’ve gone through a few fin sets ups.

D.R.