I had a brief conversation with a
guy in the water last week about surfing. The guy asked how long I'd been surfing. After I told him he said …
something like you must really like to surf… and that got me to say… “surfing
is a lot more than just surfing.”
It was early morning about 6:30 and one of my favorite weather set ups….
Cloudy along the horizon but not the
overcast marine layer like we get at the coast here in California
What’s nice about that kind of
morning is as the sun rises the clouds block the sun from reflecting on the
water as it rises making very blinding conditions riding a wave into the
direction of the suns reflection. The same thing happens on overcast mornings
as well but with the horizon clouds as the sun rises the clouds and reflecting light can be very picturesque. So I pointed that out to
the guy I was conversing with, the surroundings and environment we are in when
we surf is all part of the experience.
And really when you think about
it… which I do… just being in the ocean and looking back at the beach is pretty
unique. At the point in Ventura
How ‘bout surfing in the winter up
in the Fairgrounds and looking at the Topa Topas covered in snow. It’s cold but
can be very beautiful.
Just watching perfectly formed
waves while in the water is in itself pretty amazing. Seeing and feeling that
energy that has traveled hundreds or even thousands of miles across the ocean
to be presented right at the very spot you are sitting on your board.
Seeing phenomenal sunrises and or
sunsets while in the water surfing adds so much to the surfing experience that
only the surfer knows about and that most people will never know.
It’s all part of surfing, and
surfing goes far beyond just riding waves. And riding waves in it self is
pretty amazing.
D.R.
surfing and the surroundings
