Friday, July 31, 2020

You know what happens to surfers when there are no waves for days on end?  They get grumpy.

When the seasons first nice south swells started to show the beaches were closed. Now that we can go to the beach without being rousted by the authorities the surf has gone into hiding. I think it’s been going from micro waves to flat for 3 weeks now. I may have short term memory loss, I can’t remember the last time I was in the water, maybe at least 3 weeks.

What’s a guy to do? Well….

I’m working on a new board model right now but it’s hard to get really excited about it because inspiration kind of dries up without surf. Actually the new model has been in my head for awhile. Now Proto 1 is shaped and getting glassed.

The new model was inspired from one day a couple months ago surfing inside point on a Dream Cycle. The Dream Cycle has a design element I call the Double E. An elevated edge in the tail for edge control. Because the edge is elevated not tucked the board surfs more like an old school log but doesn’t skip or spin out on a larger wave face.

So, at the point that day I got lucky and scooped up a nice head high plus set wave and without hesitation buried my inside rail into a hard bottom turn. The move was so solid it stuck in my mind for a couple days. Then a light came on and the idea of putting the elevated edge on a wing nose reverse rocker board formed in my head. 

Working through the rocker and foil details, bottom transitions from nose to tail. It’s now becoming a reality. 

If you’d had a video of the guy working trough the various design elements of the process it would be pretty boring…. ‘cause the guy would mostly be staring at the wall. But, what was going though his head???

Then you spend a few hours cutting and massaging foam and there it is. The mental process becomes tangible. Something you can hold in your hands. Can’t wait to get it in the water and under my feet.

OK, I’m excited now.

D.R.