At this writing
tomorrow is the first day of September, only 3 weeks ‘til the official end of
summer and first day of Fall.
As is not uncommon for September in my neck of the
woods is hot weather. And as it goes a decent heat wave is in the works right
now. Looks to be maybe the next 5 days are going to be pretty hot. The
temperature on the deck in front of the house was hovering at 90 degrees at
So what’s a guy to do? If there was surf, I’d go to the
beach…. too hot to work so? But currently here there really isn’t much to surf.
It’s not 90+ at the beach even though I’m a 10-minute drive from the Surfers Point;
temps on the beach are easily 20 degrees less than my place. When temps touch
100 where I am think 80 on the sand at the point. That’s what summer days are
all about. The warm lazy days at the beach and away from the hotter days a few
miles inland.
In my book hanging at the beach surfing on warm summer
days is the best. Get in some surfing,
hang on the beach until you’re ready to cool down. Then go back in the water
for more waves and a cool down. Get out of the water for something to eat and a
cold drink. Warm up again and then paddle back out for more surf.
That’s what my son and I did on our annual camp out
at Leo Carrillo. But there was a big fire what??? About 4 years ago and Leo
was burned out. If I remember right the campground was fixed and open 2k19.
Then Covid closed the place, so our little outing has been undone, but not the
memories.
Good memories keep us coming back for more. Nobody
says “I had a terrible time surfing the other day. I think I’ll go surfing to
see if I can have another terrible day” Yeah like I want to get scooped up by
one of those set waves I got lucky enough to get in the crowd last month during
a decent swell only to get to me feet and see 3 guys right in my line that was
close to impossible to work around and end up missing the wave of the day.
I ended up barely tagging one of the guys and fell.
Didn’t notice until I got out of the water later that the fin that nicked the
tail of the guy's board pushed the fin box into the foam and separated from the
lamination. Not a good memory. Fortunately, I was able to replace the box later
in the day so I could catch what was left of the swell the next morning.
The longer we surf, that is in time, months, years,
the more we need the good memories to keep us coming back.
D.R.
