Today from the beach I saw one of the local guys that I see
pretty much every morning at the Point pull off a really nice move.
As he was paddling out
he quickly turned around does a dicey late entry drop into a set wave that was
a little over head high. He made the entry reached the bottom turned and set up
a nice long ride almost to the beach where he pulled out.
I still have what I saw in my head. And, it probably won’t be
forgotten for quite a while. I’m sure there are other sports where you see an
amazing play that you remember for a long time. But, being a surfer and knowing
how difficult a move like what I saw is….. it leaves a lasting impression.
When I finally paddled out and saw Bill, the guy that made
that move, I didn’t think to say anything about it. But I plan to the next time
I see him. That may very well be tomorrow morning.
Over the years there have been small groups of people that
surf at close to the same time each day. Of course it depends on a persons
schedule, but if your schedule is close to or the same as some others then you
end up seeing them and become surfing friends.
A surfing friend is someone you see at the beach and in the
water regularly over time. You very well may not know much about the people you
see other than the car they drive, kind of surfboard they ride etc. But, you
may spend a couple hours in the water right along side them on a constant
basis. Doing what? Having fun.
Surfing by yourself is fine….. Like being the only person in
the lineup. Or, being in a crowed line up and not know anyone around you. But
surfing with people you know is fun. You see them get good rides and hopefully
they see you get some good ones too. Sharing the experiences leaves you with
good feelings and good memories.
Over time the local crew will go through changes. A couple
faces may fade then new ones get worked in to the crew and it goes on. Today I
saw a guy that was one of the local crew, at the beach every morning. But he
moved to
There is a gal that is one of the crew but earlier in the
year she suffered a physical problem and hasn’t been surfing. It’s sad when you
know someone that has a regular routine you’re familiar with that gets
interrupted.
When I was young I don’t remember thinking the things I’ve
said here. But I’ve been surfing a long time and have memories, Making memories
with others is a good thing. Especially, if you surf…. surfing memories.
One of my memories below, a picture sent to me earlier this
month. I shaped this board 57 years ago. Always liked that particular model
from Morey-Pope.
It’s in good condition for it’s age.
D.R.
