I recently had a conversation with a friend about surfboard prices. Actually the two of us have had these conversations a few times now. Since I’m looking at new local representation, pricing has been on my mind.

In the early days of the surfboard industry… this would be when boards started being made with foam and fiberglass… the guys that made boards dealt directly with their customers. Eventually a handful of guys, mainly in California, had full fledged businesses. These businesses did everything in house. With the exception of blowing foam the process of building boards was done start to finish at one location and this even included a sales room or store front. That’s what we call factory direct now.

Because surfboards were factory direct the finished boards were never given a traditional retail markup. That factory direct price became what the market would bare for the retail price of the surfboard. Then as the various board builders began distributing surfboards beyond their own stores the retail price remained at the factory direct price. That’s what everyone was accustomed to. Consequently the surf shops that sold boards they did not make could not work a normal retail price for the surfboards they sold and had a difficult if not impossible task of making any kind of margin via surfboard sales.

That price dilemma remains today, except for boards that are made overseas. Because the cost of making surfboards in a country like China is so much less than domestic costs the imported boards can and do have a more inline retail mark up. That’s a good thing for the retailer, finally being able to see a decent margin in their surfboard sales.

The domestic builder now being faced with inexpensive imported surfboards and the retailers turning to these boards because of the margins has to show the value of the hand made, domestically made surfboard. With unsurpassed craftsmanship and staying on the cutting edge of design and performance. Offering what can not be made over seas.

D.R.

Surfboard performance is greatly affected by fins. I began learning this after I started working at Morey-Pope. They were once the main supplier of fins to the surf industry and in the mid to late sixties a major portion of the industry used the Morey-Pope fin system.

They were Polypropylene molded fins secured in the boards laminated fin cavity via the wonder bolt. My friend Peter Robinson prepared and package the fins in an area behind the sales room at the old Front St. shop.

I can’t remember all the fin shapes, but I do remember the Greenough stage one, the Yater fin and the Weber Hatchet. I’d experiment with these fins in my boards back in the day. They were easy to change out so when I got the urge after surfing for an hour or so I’d run in and swap out my fin, then go back out and surf again to see how the different fin would work in my board.

We weren’t able to change the fin location… forward or backward… which can make a big difference in performance as well but, just changing fins was enough at the time. I didn’t really like the hatchet so I reshaped one into a long sweeping curve. The fin was quite long and because the end was pretty tapered it would flex a lot. Turning on a wave with some juice would get somewhat mushy feeling and when driving in white water the board would drift as the fin flexed and then the board would jerk and bounce as the fin would return. Interesting.

During my Greenough days we worked on fin placement as well as flex. We only did glass on fins and sometimes would grind off our fin and reposition it to get our boards to work in a way we thought would be better. As well fine tuning the flex, sanding a fin until it had just the right flex and snap.

Most recently I’ve been working on quad fin set ups. And very pleased with the results I’ve gotten on my quad long board. I’m now working on the mini tanker 8’0 I’ve got. Originally I was going to make a new board with a quad set up but, changed my mind and retrofitted my 8’0 instead. Today I took it out in some head high surf, first time with four fins. It’s amazing the speed that is generated from these fins.

I made the mini tanker as a tri fin at first. Then started doing 2 plus one set ups. Now… testing how the quad set up will work with the same model. It’s a good all around board and with each fin set up the board works differently.

Get a good outline, put the outline into a good foil, rail line and bottom contour. Add fins to taste.

D.R.

My story post 22

During the summer of 1967 I found a nice 3 stringer blank at the Morey-Pope shop and claimed it for a new board. Morey didn’t make any 3 stringer models at the time so I grabbed the blank and shaped myself a new stick.

The board shaped into a thinned out 9’2 with out a snubbed or wing nose. I had it glassed with a yellow tint and had the MP label… which I cut so it was only the 2 letters MP… put about in the middle of the board between the rail and the outside stringer. So it looked nothing like a Morey-Pope board. Man did it surf good, I really liked that board.

So then I shaped another board for my friend Peter and had it glassed red and yellow tints. It looked nothing like an MP either. Then I started talking to John Peck about going shorter and lighter and made him a Penetrator that was not quite standard issue.

The result of all this new stuff was a shop wide directive from Morey that in effect said if shop personnel wanted a new board they would have to go through the front sales room door and order a stock MP board. No one could go make them selves a board, you’d have to order one just like any other customer.

Even today I remember the sad feeling I had when that happened. I remember talking to Blinky about it and how disappointing it was. Blinky, by the way, was the guy that invented Slip Check. I was so excited about making new and different boards that would get you to different places on the wave and now… I felt like a kid that just got his balloon popped.

Blinky and I started talking… ‘what are we going to do, we want to make some boards that aren’t like MP’s… how we going to do that?’ Then the light came on. ‘Why don’t we go start our own shop?.... These guys aren’t going to hold us back… heck with them, lets go do our own thing.’

The embryonic birth of William Dennis.

D.R.

In 1967 the boards I made for myself and friends were getting shorter and shorter. Still by short they were like 9 ft. but were also a bit narrower and thinner than what was considered a more standard size board.

There was concern that the smaller lighter boards wouldn’t float good enough for knee paddling, or make knee paddling difficult. I think the reason we all liked to knee paddle was the knee paddle position kept you up and off the water. Which meant you’d stay a bit warmer, if you didn’t get wet by prone paddling… there wasn’t much in wet suits back then.

The sacrifice in paddling was replaced with better performance. Snappy turns and turn backs, and what we used to call roller coasters… or rolacoaster. But, by the beginning of 1968 the surfboard dropped to sub 9 ft lengths… actually I was shaping sub 9 ft. boards in the fall of ’67. My first board in ’68 was 8 ft. and my second board was 7’6. Both of them Vee bottoms.

When Vee bottoms came in longer boards were done. There really wasn’t anything called a long board before boards started getting smaller, there were just surfboards. But, it’s pretty safe to say that when the Vee bottom era came there were new and different things going on… the long board era was gone.

It happened fast and a number of labels were unable to make the change and died right along with the long board. The surfboard industry as a whole went through a big shake down. What was once dominated by a handful of California labels that made hundreds and hundreds of boards per week all but disappeared in a matter of 2 years. The young guys that wanted to keep pushing the limits in their surfing had to start making there own board because the labels couldn’t or wouldn’t keep up. The industry became very fragmented and localized and birthed what we now call the local shaper.

D.R.

Is the hand shaped board going to die off? Does a machine blank make a better surfboard? What will surfboards be like when the generation of guys that can hand shape a surfboard get up in years enough to not work anymore and, or pass on?

These are curious questions for sure. I’ve seen this stuff talked about on a couple of the forums to some degree. No one really knows for sure how things will look in the future but it does make for conversation… good or bad.

Some guys say the machine is replacing the hand shaped board and that it does a better job anyway. But guess what? We get hand shaped boards in my shop for laminating by the best guys in the area and their boards are every bit as clean and balanced as any machined board I’ve seen.

No doubt that the face of surfboard crafting is changing. What will it look like in ten years? Will it change as much in the next ten years as it has in the last ten?

Ten years ago I was working at Hawaiian Blades. Most of the boards we did there went to Japan. Fin systems were starting to catch on but still a lot of boards had glass on fins. There were guys getting machined blanks but no where near what guys are doing now. There really wasn’t much in molded boards going on.

I would speculate that the machined blank will become a standard thing, if it hasn’t already. The cost of machining a blank will most likely be factored into the over all cost of making a board just the same as laminating it is.

Molded boards will continue to take market share but the custom board will still be around. Of course if government regulations limit or restrict the use of materials our boards are made of… but who knows if that will happen?

The thing I like about surfboards now is all the diversity. I saw long boards become completely extinct. I’ve seen the sport get so narrow that if you didn’t have what everyone else had for a surfboard you’d get laughed at. Now you can ride a standard short board, a traditional long board, a fish, a hull or what ever you want and it’s cool. Hopefully that aspect of surfing now will not change in the future.

D.R.

My story post 21

I really didn’t have many friends when I started working at Morey-Pope. By that time I had only been in Ventura for a couple months and been going to school. Sure I was acquainted with some of the guys down at the beach but didn’t really hang with anyone except my friend Peter.

I still remember my first day at MP and the first guy I met at the shop. I had walked back to the shaping area and there was this guy in the very back area of the shop gluing stringers in blanks. As soon as he saw me walk in he came right over to me and said “hi I’m Blinky” and shook my hand. Back then a number of surfer guys where given nicknames. I had really never known any of them but… I’d just met one. Man, I was starting to get to the heart of the culture… though back then we didn’t know that’s what it was.

So I was given the chance to make a living in the surfboard industry. Given a job which I showed up for every day, and began shaping the Morey-Pope models. Penetrators, Eliminators and Coopers model the Blue Machine. I was slow at first but eventually got up to shaping 4 boards a day. All in the nine to ten foot range. I made a killer $4.75 each.

Also back then working at a surf shop was like a regular job. We had regular working hours and if you weren’t there at those hours you’d better have a good reason… not “oh the surf was good so that’s why I’m late or didn’t come in yesterday".

All the workers surfed but we went after work or before. As a matter of fact, during the summer Cooper, Dale Herd, Blinky and myself usually headed out for surf everyday after work. The Point, Stanley’s or a trip down to Secos. Yeah, Cooper was the shop forman and he had a really good work ethic and expected everyone else to have a good one too. We worked hard and surfed after. Get home after dark and just crash. Get up the next day and do it all over again.

D.R.

My story post 20

So there the guy was eating his lunch from a brown paper bag. I introduced myself, still dripping wet from surfing, and said something like ‘you looking for a shaper?’ Cooper and I carried on a short conversation which ended with an invite to come by the Morey-Pope shop on Front St. and show him what I could do.

The next day I went by the shop and found Cooper. He took me into the back of the shop where there were 2 shaping bays. One was being used by Richard Deese and the other one was empty. Cooper got a blank and put it in the empty shaping bay, got a template for a board, told me the dimensions he wanted the board to be, showed me where the tools were and walked away.

So there I was, an 18 year old kid in a pro shaping bay with a big hunk of foam which I was suppose to turn into a nice show room quality shaped blank…. What was I thinking?

I probably spent the next 4 hours sweating my way through the process. Every once in a while Cooper would come by, see I was making progress and then go on about his business. When I got near finished he’d stop me, take a look at what I’d done and point out where he’d like me to make some changes, then I’d go on until I finished.

When I was done I took a break and when I came back got together with Cooper in the shaping bay and went over the board. He said ‘looks like you can shape’ and asked if I’d like to start working the following Monday…. I of course said yes.

D.R.

The Rileys gave me another video this week, it’s some footage of Travis riding an Imperial and a Penetrator… or as I’ve been calling it these days the Ventura Classic Wing Nose.

So I looked at the video and realized that there is a story behind it in regards to the Penetrator. I’m kind of a sap when it comes to stuff like this but, even still, this is a cool story.

I made the Penetrator for Dan, Travis’ dad, in 1994. One of the last boards I made in California before I moved to Kauai. As I understand it Dan rode the board for awhile and then hung it on his living room wall. Yeah, even his wife said it looked good in their living room. I guess Dan decided to preserve the board and that it looked so nice he’d put on display.

When Dan first picked up the board in ‘94 his son Travis was just 3 years old. Who’d of thought that some 13 years later that Dan’s two sons would get him to take the board off the wall and let them ride it… as long as they took very good care of it of course.

So both Matt and Travis have been riding their dad’s Penetrator that is like 13 years old. And because Matt is the video guy he took some footage of Travis and they edited a little surf flick. When I watched it I got to thinking how cool it was, Dad first rode the board when his son was only 3 years old and probably never thought one day that little guy would have a great time riding his board when he was 16 some 13 years later. I think that is really cool!

A good board can last through generations. One of the reasons I said back when I first started reissues of some of the old boards I use to shape… like 25 years ago, if it works don’t fix it.

D.R.

My story post 19

It was spring time, I had a part time job shaping and laminating boards for Pacific Plastics, went to school at Ventura College and surfed as much as possible.

I wasn’t thinking about summer even though it was right around the corner. I guess having a part time job would be all I needed during summer… I’d have more time to hunt for surf. But, everything was about to change and it only took about a week.

It started one day, maybe a Monday or Tuesday when my friend Peter and I were down at the point between classes looking at the surf. The surf was small, kind of wind swell stuff, but I wanted to get wet so I went out. Peter stayed on the beach… I think he had a class to go to or something. At least I remember there was some reason why he didn’t go out with me. Anyway, I was out for maybe 15 or 20 minutes getting a few waste high slides when Peter comes paddling straight out to me calling “Dennis, Dennis”.

I had to have been thinking ‘what the heck, Peter said he didn’t have time to surf, what happened someone die or something?’ Peter paddles up to me and says “Cooper’s on the beach he wants to talk to you. He’s looking for a shaper and I told him I new this guy that shaped, he’s out surfing right now. Should I paddle out and get him?... and he said yes”

Cooper was one of the surfing icons of the day, a big name, immediately recognizable and it was always cool when someone like that was at the beach or you saw him somewhere, like at a surf flick or something. He wanted to talk to me? About shaping? This was going to be a big moment for me, one like when I talked with Greg Noll. I paddled straight for the beach… well, maybe I caught a wave and rode it to the beach. I found Cooper at his car eating lunch.

D.R.

My Story post 18

When I showed up there were basically 2 surfboard labels in Ventura in 1967 not including the Ventura Plastics guys. They didn’t have a retail shop and really didn’t sell local.

So it was Morey-Pope and Tom Hale. Tom Hale was completely local. He had a small shop and sold boards through that shop. MP had a local shop but also had dealers so the MP label went out beyond the local area. I’m not sure where Tom Hale fabricated his boards, I think over somewhere around Olive St. in the area that is now a shoping center at the west end of Main St. The Morey-Pope shop was on Front St. They had a small retail shop that was integrated into the factory just over the walking bridge from the Ventura pier.

I remember Tom Hale as being the board that the local guys liked. Morey’s boards were different, though there were guys that had MP boards, the name with the local crowd I think was Tom Hale.

The local crowd did ride other labels from out of town like Yater from Santa Barbara, or Bing from down south. I rode my own boards, or actually a Bud Cravens, the guy that bought out my Ryder label when I graduated high school, still, boards that I made. Tried to get a couple local guys to ride them too.

It would be a rare occasion that you’d see the likes of Tom Morey out surfing at the point but it did happen from time to time. But the MP label was happening. They had the fin system that was used by all the big labels and they marketed the Slip Check decking spray. MP had a top rated surfer riding a signature board, ran adds in the magazines and Morey even staged the first ever professional surf contest with something like $1000 in prize money.

So the MP shop was probably the place a guy like myself would really have liked to get a job. I don’t know how I would have pulled it off, aside from going to the shop and applying for work that is. There’s a novel idea… that I don’t think ever came to mind. Besides I had a part time job making surfboards already.

D.R.

My Story post 17

Those early days in Ventura were really great. I can remember coming down from the college after classes and trying to time the traffic lights from 5 points to San Jon rd. along Thompson so you’d never get a red one. After all, a couple red lights means you could miss a good set if the surf was good.

Afternoon glass offs sitting in my VW van waiting for the tide to drop some or come up some or, waiting out the wind. You’d think it would be boring, nothing to do but go to school for a few hours and then surf. The only time I’d get bored was when there wasn’t any surf.

There was this local contingent of guys, and a couple gals that would be down at the point almost every day looking for surf. And, if there was surf they’d be out there. Sometimes I wonder where some of them are now. Well, I know where a few are and there are a few still around and still surfing.

So many days surfing you’d think maybe I’d have some memories of some epic surf. I’ve got a couple but mostly the memories are general kind of things. Like enjoying fun surf with the local guys. Or, sitting in a guys van watching some pretty junk south wind conditions, the surf all blown out. Then seeing the wind die out and a sneaker set come through that would clean the place up, and within minutes the surf was clean and not a sole around but me and a surf buddy.

BTW, we mostly surfed what I consider inside point. Often called the cove now. We wouldn’t surf much above Figueroa St, and not to much up at pipe. Funny, I here pipe called pipes now days. Why I don’t know, but for the record there used to be this big pipe that dumped this black slimy stuff from the oil fields into the ocean at the tide line right at the edge of the Ventura river. That’s why the spot was called pipe. The surf would get good there but the water could be pretty ugly.

You know I can remember the point getting pretty crowded sometimes back in the day. But it was always limited to the area below Figueroa St. Now? Geez it’s almost spooky seeing the number of people in the water on a weekend starting at inside point and going all the way to Ventura river.

You could complain about crowds in the old days but even still there were always the local guys out and everybody would know one another. Yeah, I never surfed alone back then because even if there were only a couple guys out they were always guys I new.

D.R.

What would you say if you were asked to fill a void on your high school surf team long board division but you really didn’t long board much?

Travis Riley was asked and he said OK. This was for the 06-07 ISF season. Travis had surfed long boards but didn’t consider himself a longboarder. Not being a longboarder got him started after the first surf meet at tied for 35^th, or dead last.

It seems that didn’t affect Travis to much because he continued surfing in the meets and continued to advance and rise in the standings. And come June there was one last surf meet to be held for the final standings and a surf off between the two rival teams Santa Barbara High and Ventura High.

Travis had his pick of boards to ride and at first he was going to ride my new prototype quad long board. The event was held at Pipe in Ventura and the surf… as usual for a surf meet… was not looking that great. So, Travis decided to ride an Imperial, thinking it to be the right equipment for small and somewhat sloppy surf and, his plan paid off.

Travis surfed in 3 heats. The first one was the team heat where Santa Barbara and Ventura went head to head. Travis took first place. The second heat Travis won as well which advanced him to the finals. Then he went on to take first place in the final beating out the leagues 1^st, 2^nd and 3rd place contenders and putting himself at number 4 in the over all standings for the season. From 35^th to 4^th and winning the final event! Way to go Travis, and doing it on a D.R.

Summertime.

We’ve been having a really nice summer this year here in Ventura. Usually the sky becomes overcast sometime in May and rarely breaks until sometime in July. This year we’ve had many sunny days and when it has been overcast the sun has been breaking out at some point for at least a couple hours. And I’m always saying…’if it was like this all the time I wouldn’t think about moving back to Hawaii so much’.

The water temps are in the 60’s so not to bad, and we’ve had some surf. At least something to ride, though pretty small, about every week so far.

I don’t know about you but, I’ve always like summer. Is it because as kids we didn’t have school and could just hang and do what ever and that feeling stays with us? Or, maybe when I was younger without responsibilities after shaping I'd go with the crew and hunt for surf. The days being long we’d still have plenty of time to hit Stanleys for a wind swell or run to Secos if there was a small south. We could surf right at the point too if it hadn’t blown out. All those great times and memories ingrained in the feeling of summer days.

I like summer swells a lot. The more casual surf, warmer water. Here in Ventura the south swells are a bit more steep, fun to ride, a nice hot dog kind of thing.

You can surf before work because it gets light by 5:30A and you can surf after work because it’s not dark until after 8:00P. I got some nice surf with light crowds with this last south swell. Went down to surf between 6:30p and 7:00p a couple days in a row and had a great time.

I think maybe I’ll get up early tomorrow and surf before I go into the shop…. Summertime.

D.R.

I’m a Lucky guy part 2.

My shop had been in need of a cleaning. The floors haven’t been redone for 6 months. As well there were a few things I’ve been wanting to upgrade around the place.

Well, I decided Friday, Saturday and if need Sunday to take care of putting down new floors and the upgrade work. My son helped with the floor along with the Riley boys on Friday. The job took about 3 or 4 hours and went well. Thanks so much guys!

My wife was out too, with food, snacks and hydration. And she helped out around the place as well. As a matter of fact, she came out about mid day Friday and stayed with me working and cleaning up until about 7 p.m.

Then Saturday she came out with me and continued to help out all day Saturday. We didn’t leave the shop until around 5 p.m. Went home for dinner and then went out to Lowe’s to pick up the material I needed to complete the projects I started earlier. This morning, Sunday now, we went out for breakfast and then my wife came with me again to the shop and spent the whole day helping around the place until I was finally finished at 6 p.m.

She is so supportive and helpful, hanging with me until we’re done. I’ve got to be one of the luckiest guys.

D.R.

Growing up as a surfer… you get started early. In this case 6 years old. Go for paddle outs with your ole man on his tanker.

When you graduate to going out on your own it’s with the ole man but on one of his other boards, not your own. And when you finally get your own board it is special made, it’s 6’0 but only as wide as the length of your arm so you can carry it to the beach by yourself.

The only way you go surfing is either with your dad or your mom takes you when the ole man is busy. Though eventually you get to go on your own. And because you live within walking distance to the beach, a nice point by the way, it’s not that difficult. As a matter of fact, the ole man makes you a rickshaw so the trip is made easy on your bicycle.

Surfing becomes virtually an everyday thing. So much so that when your dad comes home from work and needs you for something but you’re not home he knows right where you are. One of three locations along the point, where you always surf.

Your parents never worry about you being at the beach by yourself because your ole man has plenty surfer friends and they all know you and keep their eye on you when you’re surfing. So in reality you aren’t alone anyway.

As you grow up surfing is ingrained into who you are and what you do. Though you do other things you love the beach and most likely will always surf. And when you do, alot of the times it's with your ole man, just like when your were young.

A short story of my son Robin.

D.R.

The difference between boards.

Having videos is really a nice thing. Being able to review how a board is riding as well as how you are surfing is made easy via replays of video.

We’ve got video of Travis Riley riding the Quad and an Imperial. The Quad being a high performance long board that weights around 15 lbs. and the Imperial, a retro long board or traditional single fin that weights around 23 lbs.

Travis weights in at 150 lbs. the Quad is 9’1 and 22 ¼ wide. The Imperial in the video Travis is riding is 10’ and 23 ½ wide. He surfs both boards well and with the videos you can see the differences in the way each board works under his feet. The Quad is lively and bounces around a bit. The Imperial being a heavier board you can see the stability and glide. Among other things of course.

Is it a question of which one do you like or what one would you prefer to ride? Or, is it a question of which one should I ride at a certain break in certain conditions? Would you want one over the other or would you want both, and use them as surf and conditions dictate? Or mood for that matter.

D.R.

Travis riding the Quad

Travis on the Imperial

My story post 16

I’m not sure how many weeks went buy after I moved to Ventura and started going to school, but I eventually found a job. My guess is it was probably sometime in April 1967. I know I applied at a small number of locations for a job but the only one I remember right now is Colonel Chicken. Seems odd to me now because I don’t think I’m the type to work at a place like that. Up to that point I’d had a paper route or two, been a box boy at a grocery store, had my own little back yard surfboard business, and worked in a boat yard. Oh yeah, and a short time as a draftsman.

More on the boat yard…. I had the job, among other things, of grinding the inside of fiberglass boat hulls. The task was to feather out the seams where the different layers of roving and mat overlapped. Holding down the power of a 5000 rpm grinder with a 36 grit disc on it, standing or kneeling inside grinding the fiberglass of a boat hull? That was first class job misery. I didn’t last long…. How ‘bout getting inside the hull and doing the hand lay up? I didn’t do that, it was more skilled labor, but there were guys that did!

So one day I heard that this company that made surfboards was hiring, I went and applied. I had a nice looking application for this place because I could say that I was once the owner of Ryder Surfboards. And, know all aspects of board building. I got the job, part time because I was going to school. I’d report for work in the afternoons.

The Company was Pacific Plastics, they made what we all have called popouts. This was the place that made Tiki and Ten Toes surfboards. Though they were doing a different thing when I got there. The company had done a licensing deal with a number of name surfers and started mass producing regular hand shaped and laminated boards with their names on them.

One of my jobs was in the laminating room. I’d work with another guy and we’d team laminate. There were maybe 20 boards on stands in this room all dressed to be laminated. One guy would start down a row wetting out the cloth on a board then move to the next one doing the same and on through all 20. The other guy would come behind him and squeegee out the applied resin and tuck the lap and continue on until all 20 boards were done.

My other job was shaping. And there I was shaping surfboards that would get the names of some famous surfers on them… some of my heros, Paul Straus, Bucth Van Artsdalen, Duke Kahanamoku, not sure of all the names but, I was in Heaven.

D.R.

I think I’m a lucky guy.

Friday, the end of the week and I was feeling a little down. Small things that accumulated through out the week that bugged me is all. So 4…4:30 I head down to the point to see if maybe there’s a little surf, surfing has a way of curing depression. So I see a couple small waves come through the point and think I’m going for a surf.

I call my wife and tell her “I’m at the beach and will be home later ‘cause I’m going to surf for a bit. But, geez I forgot a towel…oh well I’ll wrap up in my shirt or something to change into my wet suit.” She says “OK, see you when you get home”.

I saw a friend and used his towel to change and off I went. After 45 minutes or so I look up on the promenade and see my wife. She waves hello and watches for a few minutes. So I think I better go in and see what’s up. When I walk up the sand she smiles and holds up a towel… and says “Go ahead and surf, just thought I’d come down, bring you a towel and sit at the beach for a while”. So I went back out for a few more while she sat and watched the surf...with her camera.

A few more slides on the quad… photo courtesy of my wife.

As well, it’s fathers day. And what did my son want to do? Go to the beach and surf with his dad. He’s a father too so he gets to do what he wants on fathers day. So we met up with a friend of mine and his son, the four of us had a great time.

Yeah, I think I'm very fortunate.

D.R.

Design talk.

There wasn’t much in the way of surf this week so I didn’t get the new Quad in the water for any further testing. Doesn’t look like there will be much surf for this coming week either.

So I’ll talk a little about the over all shape of this new board….

The outline is my Hawaii long board outline. So the tail is like a short board and the nose is narrower than my regular HPLB. And, the nose is more pointy similar to a Penetrator nose. The Tail has a hard edge through the tail starting above the fins. Rails are tucked and softer forward.

I’ve moved the concave back on this board so it starts about 8 inches back of the nose and runs through mid length and is deepest 3 ft back of the nose. Rather than vee in the tail I’ve run a mild roll that fades out to flat behind the fins. There is also slightly more rocker in the tail than the nose.

The idea behind the design of this board was to make a high performance long board that also would trim well. Usually high performance long boards tail surf well and nose ride good but there is no in between. With the lower nose rocker and pulled back concave combined with the nose flex from the stringer arrangement I’ve got a board that turns well, nose rides good and will work in trim. I’m stoked!

More video on the way. BTW the video in last week post is from a first go out on a small clean day. Testing by Travis Riley.

D.R.

Test riding a prototype part 2.

Getting wave time on the new perimeter stringer quad long board is continuing. This week we’ve gotten into some better waves with a little more juice. Head high reef and point waves in good to excellent conditions.

My test rider spent at least 4 days this week putting the board to test and finding how the board is working in turns and nose rides. As well said he was beginning to feel the boards flex characteristics in the waves that had enough energy.

So I asked him how the board compared to the high performance long board he rides from a well known label. His comment …..

The P.S.Q nose rides as good as the well known label but the turning aspects of the P.S.Q. are much better.

I myself surfed the board on 4 occasions too. The best day for me was just yesterday late afternoon. The Point had some head high sets with a very light crowd… actually it was one of those rare days when hardly any one was out, half dozen people at the most. So I got plenty waves.

My test riders has yet to have the fins break free on him. I’ve gotten them to break free twice. The second time being yesterday on my second wave. I was standing on the tip for a few seconds through a speedy little section when the fins let go. I was unable to keep my balance and fell. The first time the fins let go I was able to get them to reset and continued down the wave.

Yesterday I found the flex. After setting your edge on a nice steep wall coming out of your turn when the board unloads and springs back you get a very smooth extension out of the turns past what the fins provide. And the big surprise is how well the turn back and redirects flow with this board. The best I’ve ever gotten. With a 2 + 1 fin set up when your redirect after a cut back forward movement is lost and the board usually will need a second to step up to speed again. With the quad the redirects are seamless, with no noticeable loss in speed. Very fluid.

To be continued.

D.R.

First go out testing by Travis Riley