Surf memories around Christmas time.

I was given a surfboard blank for Christmas when I was 14 that became my first surfboard.

Got my first wet suit, a farmer john, for Christmas when I was 16. Went to Malibu to try it out in the afternoon on Christmas day with my older brother, he drove, and my sisters boy friend. It was over cast and freezing cold. And Malibu is a summer break not a winter break so it was dead flat. But, ‘ya gotta go out anyway’. Sat there on my board and froze. Farmer john wet suits were about all there was at the time.

It’s nice if you live at the beach, because of the holiday, crowds can be a bit thinned which makes Christmas day a good surfing day.

A few years ago my son gave me a case of surf wax for Christmas. I still haven’t gone through it all.

Tools for keeping my block planes and finger planes sharp… only a guy gets stoked over tool gifts… my wife thinks of everything.

Surfing on Christmas day in Hawaii, forget the wet suit…do I miss that?

Being with family… 5 grand kids jumping around the house, we’ll have a great time.

Merry Christmas!

D.R.

Christmas day wet suit pose.