Learning to surf, a shapers view post 5
Standing on a surf board takes balance. It also takes movement. When you ride a bicycle you need forward movement otherwise you’ll fall down. It’s the same with surfing. You need to be moving… sliding on a wave with enough speed to be able to maintain balance.
Once you catch a wave, when you stand up you must stand on the center of your surfboards width and have you body over your feet. Depending on the length of your board, where you stand in the length may not be as critical but you must be in the center of the width.
As you catch more and more waves and have more and more chances to stand up you’ll be building muscle memory and planting your feet in the right place on the surfboard will become consistant. As that happens keeping your body over your feet and ride will get better.
Staying centered over your board is absolutely essential or you’ll fall. It doesn’t matter where you are on the wave face or what move you work to pull off, if your centered over your board and body and have enough forward movement you’ll make it.
The best way to see how staying centered works is to watch people surf.
D.R.
Standing on a surf board takes balance. It also takes movement. When you ride a bicycle you need forward movement otherwise you’ll fall down. It’s the same with surfing. You need to be moving… sliding on a wave with enough speed to be able to maintain balance.
Once you catch a wave, when you stand up you must stand on the center of your surfboards width and have you body over your feet. Depending on the length of your board, where you stand in the length may not be as critical but you must be in the center of the width.
As you catch more and more waves and have more and more chances to stand up you’ll be building muscle memory and planting your feet in the right place on the surfboard will become consistant. As that happens keeping your body over your feet and ride will get better.
Staying centered over your board is absolutely essential or you’ll fall. It doesn’t matter where you are on the wave face or what move you work to pull off, if your centered over your board and body and have enough forward movement you’ll make it.
The best way to see how staying centered works is to watch people surf.
D.R.
Taking off and planting your feet…. Centered
Setting up a turn from center. 
Standing on the nose and centered.
After stepping back from the nose… centered.
Hitting a section and staying over your center.
Tipp rides with your body over your feet… centered.
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