Knowing your idiosyncrasies is important to having a good time in the water… at least for me it does.
Yesterday I surfed for about two and a half hours. A pretty long go out for me in the winter. Usually an hour and a half is enough of the cold, but yesterday wasn’t to cold so I hung for awhile longer. Reason being, it was way to crowded for the consistency, 3 or 4 slightly overhead set waves every five or eight minutes is not enough waves to fill the needs of 25 guys in a very uniform lineup. I kept hoping the crowd would thin out so I could get a little more action than I was getting…. It just didn’t happen.
One idiosyncrasy, I didn’t paddle out where I had a view of the line up. When I go out at the point or pipe when there is surf of decent size and I don’t get a view of the line up as I’m paddling out for some reason my timing gets off. Funny, even though I’ve surf these places thousands of hours I still get disoriented sometimes if I don’t get a look at the line up a certain way.
At the point if I don’t paddle out going up into the line up I just don’t get a good enough feel of the oceans rhythm to be set up for a good surf session. Yesterday I paddled out at the top of the point. Aside from getting picked off just as I reached the impact zone, another bad omen, I still never got a good look at the line up.
Yesterday I surfed for about two and a half hours. A pretty long go out for me in the winter. Usually an hour and a half is enough of the cold, but yesterday wasn’t to cold so I hung for awhile longer. Reason being, it was way to crowded for the consistency, 3 or 4 slightly overhead set waves every five or eight minutes is not enough waves to fill the needs of 25 guys in a very uniform lineup. I kept hoping the crowd would thin out so I could get a little more action than I was getting…. It just didn’t happen.
One idiosyncrasy, I didn’t paddle out where I had a view of the line up. When I go out at the point or pipe when there is surf of decent size and I don’t get a view of the line up as I’m paddling out for some reason my timing gets off. Funny, even though I’ve surf these places thousands of hours I still get disoriented sometimes if I don’t get a look at the line up a certain way.
At the point if I don’t paddle out going up into the line up I just don’t get a good enough feel of the oceans rhythm to be set up for a good surf session. Yesterday I paddled out at the top of the point. Aside from getting picked off just as I reached the impact zone, another bad omen, I still never got a good look at the line up.
I didn’t catch a wave for at least 10 or 15 minutes either, which is another idiosyncrasy. I’ve got to get on my feet within the first few minutes in the water or my rhythm gets off. As well, the tide was dropping, I do better on a static tide or in coming tide.
So after two and a half hours I got a few OK slides and finally caught a wave that took me far enough down the point to call it quits. I don’t know… maybe the surf wasn’t as good as it looked.
Oh well, I sure have been enjoying the 7’0 stubbie quad I’ve been riding though!
D.R.
So after two and a half hours I got a few OK slides and finally caught a wave that took me far enough down the point to call it quits. I don’t know… maybe the surf wasn’t as good as it looked.
Oh well, I sure have been enjoying the 7’0 stubbie quad I’ve been riding though!
D.R.
D.R. photo by David Puu.
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