While growing up I surfed Malibu all the time. Was it my favorite place? No. That may sound dumb, after all Malibu is an all time place. Yeah, but back then my favorite spot was Secos, or Leo Carillo. Why? There were a number of reasons…. Like there were no where near as many people on the beach or in the water there. The wave is very consistent in shape. It really only blows out with a south wind.. so it’s either glassy or has a nice textured wave face. It’s tide sensitive but you can work around that. But all in all I always had a good time surfing Secos.
I really liked Hammonds Reef when I was younger too. Didn’t surf it very much but still liked going there when ever I did. And again don’t ever remember having a bad time there.
There are a couple other spots I’d say were my favorites too but everyone was a place I’d go to and have a good time. So really it’s not just the wave the makes for a spot being your favorite. It’s the mix of all the other ingredients that make surfing more than riding waves. The look of the water, what you see in the line up when you look at the beach and landscape. The feeling or vibe, the people, or lack of. And if you have a good time, time after time going there.
Visting your favorite spot can really help your stoke level too. I can remember going to a favorite spot when there were no waves just to sit on the beach and dream. Even that can make you feel good.
I’ve had or have a few favorite spots. I don’t go surf them these days so they stay a fond memory. I do think of the days I surfed my favorite spots but that’s as far as it gets. Maybe living at the beach and so close to places to surf makes it that way. I don’t know, I sure would like to go back to Kauai and surf some of my favs there.
D.R.
Secos on a day I sat on the beach and took a few pictures.
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