Learning to surf a shaper view post 7

As you progress with you surfing abilities you will develop a certain style. Sometimes we see someone surfing that is advanced and see them enough that we will begin to emulate how they surf. Hand positioning, stance and body language. Over time all that you see with the surfers around you is synthesized into you own unique style.

As an example I know a number of local guys that I’ve surfed with for years. When I walk up to the beach where we all surf and see a crowd of surfers in the water and one of those local guys takes off on a wave I can usually tell who they are by their style. There could be 4 of my friends in the water with a dozen other people but when one of my friends rides a wave I can identify them from the beach by the way they surf.

We all develop a unique style. Maybe it’s a surfing personality, but as you develop your abilities so to does your style of surfing. It may depend on the surf spot you frequent, as well as the kind of board you ride. But, your style will develop along with your abilities.

Since I mentioned the kind of board you ride playing a part in how your style will develop it might be important to understand that sometimes your equipment can be used to get you to surf a certain way.

Personally I think that surfing off of the rail of your board is more pleasing to watch than surfing off the tail of your board. To me longer power moves worked off the rail are more pleasing to look at than short jerky moves from surfing off the tail.

When my son began to advance in his surfing abilities I made him boards that he had to surf off the rail. They were wider tailed boards that if he worked them off the tail he’d spin out and fall. Because he wanted to ride waves as long as possible and not fall he learned how to ride his boards off the rail. And his surfing style developed more as a rail surfer than a tail surfer. As he progressed I made him boards that he could surf off the tail which gave him more maneuverability but because he had a more rail surfing style he didn’t do short jerky moves.

If you want to surf a certain way then watch surfers that surf that way. It may not be smart to get the same board they ride because their equipment may be to advanced for your abilities. But you can get boards to ride that will progress your abilities and style so over time you will have the style of surfing you’d like… uniquely your own.

D.R.

Photo by David Puu

Photo by Matt Riley