Three days of surfing, one of them rare.
We’ve had a small NW swell here in So Cal the last few days… it started to show a little Friday, filled in Saturday and held through today.
I got a call late Friday morning and was told that a spot just above Ventura was clean with about head high waves… I had hoped the forecasted swell would start to show and maybe go get some waves later in the day so when I got the call decided to take a break and go right after I got off the phone with my friend Dan…. He also said no one was there surfing too… an added bonus.
Sure enough 15 minutes later when I drove up and got out of my car to greet my friends and get a look at the surf it was as I was told… but with 2 guys out. A nice sunny warm day and clean looking lines coming across the reef. I started suiting up.
A few minutes later with wet suit on and waxing my board I notice both guys had come in. There was another guy suiting up the same time as me and we ended up walking up the beach at the same time. As I paddled out the other guy had paddled out but sat over and inside of the main lineup so I was by myself. The other guy only stayed out for about 20 minutes or so and then I was literally the only guy in the water… it stayed that way for close to an hour until one person paddled into the lineup… I don’t remember the last time I’ve surfed by myself. I may have had a certain peak to myself here in Ventura a few times for a half hour or so but Friday I had the whole place to myself with some decent waves for about an hour. That’s rare, and with nice weather really rare.
Saturday I planned my surf for around 1:30p after the tide had peaked. The wind stayed light and the surf was semi consistent, not too crowded. I still had to negotiate the crowd but was able to pick up a few set waves. Though the waves were bigger and more consistent, compared to Friday I had to take or wait for my turn at the waves that came through.
Today? The surf was not quite what it was Saturday but close. But the crowd? Heavy. So it made getting a chance slim. I started thinking at one point how disappointing surfing Pipe is for me. I used to surf there all the time and would always have a good time… but that was 2 decades ago.
When I got home today I thought how extreme… Friday was almost surreal, today radically different. One day like heaven the other…? Well it wasn’t hell but did get the old guy frustrated. But geez… what do you expect? It was the weekend!
D.R.
We’ve had a small NW swell here in So Cal the last few days… it started to show a little Friday, filled in Saturday and held through today.
I got a call late Friday morning and was told that a spot just above Ventura was clean with about head high waves… I had hoped the forecasted swell would start to show and maybe go get some waves later in the day so when I got the call decided to take a break and go right after I got off the phone with my friend Dan…. He also said no one was there surfing too… an added bonus.
Sure enough 15 minutes later when I drove up and got out of my car to greet my friends and get a look at the surf it was as I was told… but with 2 guys out. A nice sunny warm day and clean looking lines coming across the reef. I started suiting up.
A few minutes later with wet suit on and waxing my board I notice both guys had come in. There was another guy suiting up the same time as me and we ended up walking up the beach at the same time. As I paddled out the other guy had paddled out but sat over and inside of the main lineup so I was by myself. The other guy only stayed out for about 20 minutes or so and then I was literally the only guy in the water… it stayed that way for close to an hour until one person paddled into the lineup… I don’t remember the last time I’ve surfed by myself. I may have had a certain peak to myself here in Ventura a few times for a half hour or so but Friday I had the whole place to myself with some decent waves for about an hour. That’s rare, and with nice weather really rare.
Saturday I planned my surf for around 1:30p after the tide had peaked. The wind stayed light and the surf was semi consistent, not too crowded. I still had to negotiate the crowd but was able to pick up a few set waves. Though the waves were bigger and more consistent, compared to Friday I had to take or wait for my turn at the waves that came through.
Today? The surf was not quite what it was Saturday but close. But the crowd? Heavy. So it made getting a chance slim. I started thinking at one point how disappointing surfing Pipe is for me. I used to surf there all the time and would always have a good time… but that was 2 decades ago.
When I got home today I thought how extreme… Friday was almost surreal, today radically different. One day like heaven the other…? Well it wasn’t hell but did get the old guy frustrated. But geez… what do you expect? It was the weekend!
D.R.
David Puu Photo
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