Sunday, January 30, 2011

Surfing and injuries.

Lets just say if you have injuries for what ever reason it’s no fun. And of course injuries can keep you out of the water… no surfing when you hurt. That’s double no fun, or that just plain sucks.

Since my thirties I’ve had a few physical problems from time to time that have kept me from surfing. Like when I broke my heal. I’ve also suffered from swimmers shoulder, though in my case it’s surfers shoulder.

The shoulder thing would flare up every now and then and it has again. Though this time not from surfing I went on the injured list just from over work or sleeping wrong or what? I don’t know.

Last winter season we had some really good surf and I missed much of it from January and February because I got a really lousy cold. Now my shoulder went out last week and there has been some really nice surf, as well, the forecast is calling for a string of new swells this coming couple weeks… dang!

At least I seem to be on the mend but, I’ve got to go real slow and let the shoulder heal well before I can put any stress on it. Other wise I go down again and have to start all over with the recovery process.

There is not much worse than an inflamed shoulder. You can’t move without feeling the thing. It screams with every heart beat. The slightest move and.. OUCH! If the prettiest girl in the world came and gave your shoulder the softest little kiss you’d knock her on her butt with your good arm. And all you can think about is, “I hope this dang thing gets better so I can surf… I hope I can surf again”

Actually thinking about surfing may help you get better. I have a friend Kevin, that years ago hurt his leg. The doctors said he may never surf again, that he was going to lose movement in his foot because of the nature of his wound. I remember him saying he’d lay in his bed and look at his feet and try to get his foot to move, because he couldn’t move his foot, and he’d keep trying and trying. He kept telling himself to move his foot. Over time and continually doing this mental to physical exercise he said he started to see the tiniest movement. That gave him hope so he’d stayed at it until he could do what the doctors said he would not be able to.

He couldn’t stand the idea of not being able to surf again so he made himself do the impossible. He got better and went surfing. And, is still surfing some thirty years later.

So I’m getting better, hopefully I’ll be surfing again in a couple weeks.

I was sent a few pictures today from Fabio, he bought himself a new Tip Tool. It made my day!

D.R.





5 comments:

knots said...

Had shoulder issues for several years. They came and went and such was life. This past summer was the worst yet. Surfing was the least of my issues and sleeping was becoming the real problem. A friend recommended I go see his chiropractor. I did. Although painful, he pushed his thumb into my shoulder and rolled it around for several minutes until the entire joint seemed numb. After one visit, I was amazed at the result. After 3 or 4 visits, no pain in my shoulder at all. Now I go once a month and life is good.
Get well and back into the water soon!
Aloha!

D.R. said...

Hi Knots,

I've never heard of a chiropractor fixing a shoulder... but what do I know... don't doubt it at all.

I'm on the mend and should be back to normal in another week or so.

D.R.

Anonymous said...

Dennis,

I had shoulder issues for years,
Surfing actually seemed to resolve
my main issue - while it appears to have created others.
My chiropractor once said something to me which was the best advice I have ever received.

She said "yoga, yoga, yoga"

By the way - I have a new tip tool of my own - and you shaped it.
For a modest some of money - I have put my Hydro Hull in moth balls - while I explore the awesome
possibilities of walking the nose,
cheater fives - cross stepping and
yes, maybe some day, hanging ten,
all on my used Dennis Ryder.

All this, and I can still crank giant top turns with your magic,
hand shaped board - my stoke is scary high...........

I've been out for a week with a shin ding - I got it riding your
board - They couldn't get me out of the water for two days after my injury - finally when my foot started filling up with blood,
I gave in - that's how much fun I'm having..........
Almost all better now - Going surfing tomorrow.

I will never let his stick out of
my sight.

Regards - matt faust

D.R. said...

Hey Matt, My son told me he met you in the water this past week.

He's been getting in the water everyday at lunch... I'm still holding back until I am completly better.

D.R.

ChrisR in SF said...

Hi, Dennis
I've had surfer's shoulder/inner rotator cuff issue for years. Used to wake up in the middle of the night with extreme pain (can't move, must move). A friend suggested Aleve, the simple over-the-counter stuff. I take one in the am, one in the eve. That's it. After two weeks, I simply realized, hey I slept through the night...and only a 2+ hour session of constant paddling at Ocean Beach in SF will "remind" me of it. Sure, some light weight lifting and mild rubber band stuff, stretching helps too. But I know it's the Aleve.
ChrisR in SF