Random thoughts.

I hadn’t been sleeping very well this past week, always waking up in the middle of the night. The night of the day I surfed… no more insomnia.

Surfing takes care of insomnia.

How come the minute you say I’ll get one more wave and go in the sets just stop?

You get to the beach, there’s some nice surf and it isn’t crowded. You’re stoked, get suited up, paddle out get to the line up turn around and look at the beach only to see 20 guys getting ready to paddle out.

You find a ding in your board and have no idea how it got there.

You sit and wait your turn for a good set wave. You are in perfect position, turn around stroke into the wave, drop to the bottom set your edge and see 3 guys paddling right in your line of flight… messing your whole trip.

There’s a kook in the water that you see trying to catch waves but never can. So, the one time you decide to quickly turn around and paddle into a wave he’s trying for he actually catches… you’re behind him and he can only go straight.

The south wind picks up right when you’re walking to the waters edge for a go out. Note, in Southern California south winds blow out most spots, period.

You get to the beach and can’t find your towel.

Your board is as slippery as snot and you have no wax.

You don’t surf with a leash and fall on your first wave. No beg deal, because your board popped out of the wave and is close by but, then the next wave takes it all the way to the beach just before you get to it.

It’s better to have one board you really like than 2 that are just OK.

It’s hard to have a good time in the water if you’re not relaxed.

D.R.

Tim Nesbit riding a Stubbie Quad