Sunday, October 14, 2012

Happiness and surfing you’d think go hand in hand. I watched a documentary this past week called Happy. It’s a study that some sociologist types did about what makes people happy, and the effects happiness has on our lives.

Since surfing makes people happy I wondered if there would be someone interviewed in the movie that surfed. Sure enough a guy from Brazil was interviewed about how surfing makes and keeps him happy. 

What is it about surfing that makes you Happy?  I really don’t know what it is.  But I do know that when I’m feeling down, or stressed a good surf will rinse those bad feelings away.  Had a bad day? Go surf and feel better. Stressed out with the kids? Go surf (if you can ) and feel better.  Someone got you irritated? Go surf and be un-irritated.  

Amazing how that works.

I got to thinking about bad vibes in the water, and how out of place tension in the lineup is. Really tension in the lineup is counter to what surfing is.  And to me it gives off the  feeling like there is some kind of pollutant in the water. When someone is not nice or unpleasant in the water it’s like a pollutant. The best thing to do if the water is polluted is go to a spot that isn't polluted…. Surfing should be a happy thing.

Also got me to thinking that maybe the reason my wife doesn't mind me going off for a surf. She knows I’ll come home happy…. I’d best not talk about what a great time I had too much though… it’s not good to be too happy.

D.R.



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