Man I like summer!  The warm days and long days at that.  It’s light at 5:30 am.  If you go down to the beach at the butt crack of dawn you can surf 2 hours and still be at work by 8am if you work close enough to the beach. Or, you can go down to the beach at 5:30 in the evening and surf for 2 hours and be on your way home before it’s even dark.

 

I had my grandson here visiting all last month.  I took him surfing about 3 or 4 times a week, he was getting the surfing bug.  He went home June 28 so the day before he left we went surfing in the morning and the evening.  There was a little south and west combo swell running that day. The morning wasn’t that great but as the day progressed the conditions cleaned up so that evening was really fun.

 

That late afternoon when we were out surfing again I kept asking Merrick if he’d had enough, he’d say no and we’d just keep surfing.  It was sunny and warm but when the sun dipped behind the inland hills it seemed like a good time to call it a day.  When we got back to the Van to dry off I checked my phone for the time.. it was 15 minutes to 8. We went and got hamburgers drove home pulling into the driveway just as it was getting dark. Compare that to winter when dark is 5pm.

 

Yeah, Merrick’s last day was one full summer day, and I was tired that night.  Only to wake up early and take the kid to LAX.

 

D.R.