Monday, September 07, 2015

Saw this question on one of the forums this past week.... Shapers that can't use a planer, does it matter really?

Of all the responses only one came back "no".

Watched a movie yesterday called Ride, about an over bearing mother and her son... a surfer. Helen Hunt is the mother. She directed and wrote the screen play. Seems she did her own stunts in all the footage of her learning how to surf in the movie... interesting take on  California and surfers.  Kind of Hollywood....  of course.

So a swell shows up for the holiday weekend. Supposed to hold through Monday and another due Tuesday. I couldn't hold back and went down this morning... I got a couple.

Got back to the van and the guy that parked next to me comes up... he'd just gotten out of the water too. He says ' that was a nice start to the day. I wasn't expecting much and it was actually pretty good, I got a couple nice ones.'  I say ' anymore I think coming to the beach with low expectations is the best approach... that way you won't be disappointed if the surf sucks or you have a bad time.'

I wish I could do that, it seems more times than not my expectations aren't met. Is there a therapist for this problem? 

I've got a couple new models coming. Just finished one, very stoked about it. Funny... I get back to making surfboards and the unmet expectations of going to the beach completely fad away.  That's therapy.

D.R. 


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