Sunday, August 21, 2016

Where I live there can be surf but it may not be that good. It can range from pretty junk to really good. Good like that picture on the cover of Surfer Mag. a few months ago or junk like.. "I'm not going out in that mess".
What happens in Ventura is wind. Winds that originate off the coast up above Santa Barbara that can blow for days at a time. The winds typically don't have a long enough fetch to generate surf but what we get instead of surf is lumpy local conditions. The summer swells we get can get totally ruined by those lumpy local conditions.... yeah, it really sucks too.
This week we had a 3 day summer swell. It started showing Thursday and there was some bump in the water. But it laid down as the day progressed and stayed that way through the night. So Friday morning the conditions were really good. There's nothing better than surf that is dang close to perfect peeling down the point.
I surfed Friday morning until I started to fatigue. Didn't want to get out of the water but had an appointment to go to so I reluctantly got out of the water and did the responsible thing. With visions of those perfect waves in my head for the rest of the day and into the night. I made plans to get up at the butt crack of dawn and get some more Saturday morning. I seldom surf on the weekend but couldn't hold back.
So guess what happened? The wind picked up Friday afternoon and blew all night long. There was more surf Saturday with more size but, the conditions were lumpy... again. And once again I'd set my expectations to high. The surf was ok but after spending a couple hours in really good surf the day before? ... bummer.
Is it a bad thing to wish for really good surf  2 days in a row?
D.R.


No comments: