I saw an old friend at the beach
today who hadn't been surfing much the past few years because of health
problems. But he's on the mend now and getting back in the water. We talked
for a few minuets before I mention my work shop was 95 degrees while sanding a
surfboard so I'm going to go get wet.
After being in the water for 15
minuets or so I see John paddling into the line up. He said "I decided to
come out after you did because at least I'd be in the water with someone I know
in the crowd." I thought that was a
interesting comment for a local Ventura
guy who's been surfing Ventura for
over 50 years.
There really aren't that many of
the old crew around anymore.... or at least that you might see at the point going
for a surf on any given afternoon. So a guy could feel a bit out of place. Especially if you haven't been getting in the water for awhile.
I suggest he should come down
early morning because there is a pretty regular group of people that surf the
point in the morning and after a few days he'd start to see the same group and
begin to feel more comfortable because of the familiar faces.
Yeah, that morning group of
regulars.... almost every day at least through the summer, they are there. If
there is any surf to ride at all 8 or ten of them will be in the water. That's
some dedication. Me... I'll go down early if I know there's going to be a swell
in the water and even then I've got to make an effort to get up and go. And
when I do I will see the morning group, some with coffee in hand giving a look
see before suiting up and going for a surf.
D.R.