Friday, September 30, 2016

I saw an old friend at the beach today who hadn't been surfing much the past few years because of health problems. But he's on the mend now and getting back in the water. We talked for a few minuets before I mention my work shop was 95 degrees while sanding a surfboard so I'm going to go get wet.
After being in the water for 15 minuets or so I see John paddling into the line up. He said "I decided to come out after you did because at least I'd be in the water with someone I know in the crowd."  I thought that was a interesting comment for a local Ventura guy who's been surfing Ventura for over 50 years.
There really aren't that many of the old crew around anymore.... or at least that you might see at the point going for a surf on any given afternoon. So a guy could feel a bit out of place. Especially if you haven't been getting in the water for awhile.
I suggest he should come down early morning because there is a pretty regular group of people that surf the point in the morning and after a few days he'd start to see the same group and begin to feel more comfortable because of the familiar faces.
Yeah, that morning group of regulars.... almost every day at least through the summer, they are there. If there is any surf to ride at all 8 or ten of them will be in the water. That's some dedication. Me... I'll go down early if I know there's going to be a swell in the water and even then I've got to make an effort to get up and go. And when I do I will see the morning group, some with coffee in hand giving a look see before suiting up and going for a surf.
Ventura is a beach town. I think beach towns are different than other towns because of the people that live in the town or close enough to town and enjoy the beach on a regular basis if not almost daily. The beach can really become part of who you are.... and definitely if you surf.
D.R. 


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