The difference between the point
in Ventura and the other three
points a few miles up the coast?
They all have their own
personality but the thing about Ventura
is it's the place where the more novice surfers go, especially in summer. Summer waves are softer breaking and sand
fills into the beach at the point which makes for a much more casual go out.
besides the other points don't really break on the summer south swells.
What happens then is the more
novice or inexperienced surfer that is a little familiar with the point in Ventura
may come for a surf in the fall and winter when the surf gets some size. And,
have no idea that the surf and water conditions in the fall and winter are much
different than what they've experienced in the summer.
First the surf will not look as
big as it really is because where you look at the surf from the beach is a good
8 feet above sea level so you are looking down on the water. As well, the surf
will be breaking much farther out, the distance makes the waves look smaller.
The biggest thing that someone
who's surfed the point in summer will find different in the fall and winter is
the current. And that's the problem. The current moves you down the point as
you paddle out. If you can't break through the surf zone it's possible to get
stuck in the current and end up still in the surf zone at the pier. Imagine
being swept through the pilings in the white water. Then add your surf board is
strapped to your foot. It can be and has been fatal.
The experienced regular surfers at
the point have been known to caution and encourage the more novice not to go
out when the point has some size.... for good reason.
My son while surfing one of the
recent swells after getting one of those long rides all the way down the point
got out of the water down by the pier and was walking up the beach with a guy
that had got swept through the pier. The guy said his dad was not going to be
happy because he was using his dads board and it got buckled on it's way
through the pier.
Then my son sees this guy, with
surf board under his arm, eyeing the surf at the waters edge about half way
between the pier and the lower stairs like the guys is getting ready to paddle
out. Robin says to the guy "this is not the place to be paddling out. If you're
going to go out then walk way up the point first. Other wise you'll end up
being swept through the pier with the current".
There is a saying... Know before
you go.
D.R.
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