A line from my last post..

“Seeing really good surf and being told “no you can’t surf that” is really hard for the surfer…”

It may even be impossible.

This Pic of Malibu nicked from a Surfline article about the beach openings in L.A. County this month, shows exactly the above line. As it was taken before the beaches were open. I’m counting maybe a 6 wave head to over head set on a minus tide with around 20 surfers in the water and, seeing only 1 guy or gal on the waves peeling around the point.

Also in the pic are 3 life guard tucks on the beach. A life guard boat in the water and a police car in the parking lot. The question for the authorities is do the surfers even care? If I was in the water the answer would be no. As well, I’d be in the water going after those waves until I was completely worn out. Rubber legs noodle arms kind.

You look at the photo and think what’s running through the surfers heads. Things like… I can’t believe I’m getting these waves… man that was a good one… I’m never getting out of the water I don’t care how tired I get… not a thought of what’s on the beach. When you’re in surf like that all you see is the waves.

And the authorities, what’s in there heads? What kind of effort did they put together to even be there. What is going to be accomplished with whatever they are going to do. Of course they are just doing there job and following a chain of command and all. But Really?

Looks to me from the photo the surfers are practicing social distancing. What more could they ask for?

D.R.