Summer is officially over. And what a summer it wasn’t.
Here in
Thing about the fair is that parking gets shut down. The
formally free lot gets closed and the pay lot up into pipe is also closed. So
the only place to park close to the beach is at inside point. That gets filled
up during the Fair before sun up if there is a swell. And that’s what happened
the day of the only decent south swell this now past summer.
Fortunately when I got down at the point, when it was still
dark, I found a parking space so I could park and go for a walk up the point as
the day was just getting light. Check the conditions, see where the swell was
focused and of course see all the guys that would have parked up in the upper
lot, that was closed, walk all the way up to Pipe. Some guys even running. Not
that the surf was that great but it takes several minutes to get up there and
then several minutes to get back to you vehicle after you surf. When you’ve got
to get to work every minute is crucial.
Not everyone will make the trek up to Pipe so they just go
out at the point or surf inside point. Which makes for very crowed conditions. Even
though the swell produce pretty consistent sets unless you were really
aggressive getting a set wave was though. This ole guy wasn’t feeling very
aggressive that day so I got a whopping 4 waves during the hour plus I was in
the water.
Days like that have me longing for my younger days when there
where fewer surfers and you could surf for a hour or two and get worn out.
Getting plenty waves and lots of paddling to get back in the lineup for another
go at it.
The other thing about this now past summer was the water
temperature…. call it cold. Wearing a winter suit into June is a bit much. But
if you didn’t want to shiver for an hour…. Well that’s what if did. It did
finally warm up but didn’t stay that that way. Even now the water is just above
60 degrees. The water temps last winter got pretty cold so looks like there
could be repeat of cold water this
winter.
With no real summer surf maybe we’ll get some nice fall surf.
In my neck of the woods fall can offer up some nice consistent surf.
Hoping for the best.
D.R.
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