Surfing is really pretty incredible and as it’s said… ‘only a surfer knows the feeling’.

As long as I’ve been surfing I still think it’s absolutely incredible! Standing at waters edge and watching waves rolling across and down a shore line and thinking it would be possible to swim out to the breaking waves and stroke into them and hence slide down and across the wave face? How nuts is that? Or, design a plank out of something and work your way out to the breaking waves lying on that plank. Then paddle into the wave, have the wave pick you up so you start sliding down its face?

It’s all amazing, and on top of it all we’ve designed boards so you can actually stand on them while sliding down the face of a wave, maneuver around, up and down, over, under and even inside a breaking wave. The accomplished surfers make it look easy but, it’s not. It takes a ton of effort even to just catch a wave let alone stand up on a surfboard. However, once you’ve put in the effort and are able to feel the sensation of riding a wave you can get completely hooked. It’s really challenging and very rewarding, physically demanding and very satisfying, on top of being great fun and one of the best forms of recreation.

Today I went for an afternoon surf at the point. There were a number of people in the water learning to surf…. Some maybe out for their first time. Made for a slalom course for awhile, until a couple set waves cleaned them all out. But I’ll tell you what, they all seemed to be trying and they all had smiles on their faces, they were having fun. So was I!

D.R.

Fun = Travis Riley on a small wave dancing, on a surfboard or on water?