I was told about the film a couple weeks ago but had forgotten about it. Then yesterday it caught my attention again and I found it showing at a theater here in Ventura so my wife and I went and saw it last night. I’d say it’s definitely worth the price of admission.
There are some great old clips of seventies single fin surfing, all in Hawaii, and an excellent piece of surfing history that most everyone won’t know… until now. Depending on your view point you may come away with some pluses or minuses but all in all the film was well done.
What I liked was the throw back, as I mentioned in my bottom turn post about how surfing was advanced by guys that surfed to surf, the movie goes back to before there were pro surfers. The story of Mark Richards getting a seat in the big Hawaii surf meet and not having the fifty buck entry fee. As well, MR telling how petrified he was when he had to go out in giant Waimea for the Smirmoff Contest. But to his credit went out caught some wave then after his heat being relieved that he finished forth because if he finished third or better would advance and have to go out again.
That particular surf meet is one of the stories in the book “ Surf Is Where You Find It “ by Gerry Lopez by the way. Having read the story, hearing another real time view and seeing footage of the day was a treat.
There is some real emotion in the interviews. Getting that on film and putting it in the film I’d say took some guts. It’s not all pretty, there are some serious moments as well as some clips of bone crushing wipeouts. If you get the chance… go see it.
D.R.
MR Photo nicked from http://www.bustindownthedoor.com/
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