My Story post 35
Sometimes good things come to those that wait.
I was sitting in my VW bus one afternoon at the point all by myself lamenting the junk surf conditions when another guy pulled up in his bus… then the two of us were looking at the junk surf with no one out and nobody else around.
I got out of my car and into his for the company and to complain about the south wind blowing out the surf. We talked story for a half hour…. maybe longer. The wind had actually died out but a south wind leaves the conditions pretty bad for at least a few hours or longer depending on whether or not a west or north west wind picks up to smooth things up.
It really sucks when all you have is time, there’s surf, but it’s blown out. So there we were the two of us with no one else around. The only guys dumb enough to not find something to do but stare at the ocean when the surf was so beat up.
Then we noticed a sweeper set come pushing through the point that left the line up a fare amount cleaner than it had been… we began to perk up. A few minutes later it happens again and with in a few more minutes the surf had cleaned up and the surface conditions were nothing like the junk we’d been staring at. We both looked at each other and said “I’m gonin out!” Because we were the only guys that knew the conditions had changed we had the place all to ourselves.
That was back in 1967. Fast forward to a day in the mid nineties when I had gotten a ride to Pakala one morning and was dropped off to surf. A friend of mine was coming later to join me, surf and then I’d get a ride back home with him. But, the west wind picked up early that particular day and after I was in the water for 20 or 30 minutes the place blew out. I ended up on the beach by myself waiting for my surf buddy to show up… who was not due for a good hour or so. There I sat on the beach waiting to see my buddy walk up with a disgusted look on his face when he saw the surf was blown out.
It wasn’t long before he was to come walking down the beach when I noticed what looked like spray blowing off the backs of the waves up around the corner in front of Pakala camp… the wind was turning off shore again.
Sure enough within fifteen minutes after my friend showed up the off shores had reached around the corner to the main break and we both were on it. And, because everybody had left earlier we had the place to ourselves.
D.R.
Sometimes good things come to those that wait.
I was sitting in my VW bus one afternoon at the point all by myself lamenting the junk surf conditions when another guy pulled up in his bus… then the two of us were looking at the junk surf with no one out and nobody else around.
I got out of my car and into his for the company and to complain about the south wind blowing out the surf. We talked story for a half hour…. maybe longer. The wind had actually died out but a south wind leaves the conditions pretty bad for at least a few hours or longer depending on whether or not a west or north west wind picks up to smooth things up.
It really sucks when all you have is time, there’s surf, but it’s blown out. So there we were the two of us with no one else around. The only guys dumb enough to not find something to do but stare at the ocean when the surf was so beat up.
Then we noticed a sweeper set come pushing through the point that left the line up a fare amount cleaner than it had been… we began to perk up. A few minutes later it happens again and with in a few more minutes the surf had cleaned up and the surface conditions were nothing like the junk we’d been staring at. We both looked at each other and said “I’m gonin out!” Because we were the only guys that knew the conditions had changed we had the place all to ourselves.
That was back in 1967. Fast forward to a day in the mid nineties when I had gotten a ride to Pakala one morning and was dropped off to surf. A friend of mine was coming later to join me, surf and then I’d get a ride back home with him. But, the west wind picked up early that particular day and after I was in the water for 20 or 30 minutes the place blew out. I ended up on the beach by myself waiting for my surf buddy to show up… who was not due for a good hour or so. There I sat on the beach waiting to see my buddy walk up with a disgusted look on his face when he saw the surf was blown out.
It wasn’t long before he was to come walking down the beach when I noticed what looked like spray blowing off the backs of the waves up around the corner in front of Pakala camp… the wind was turning off shore again.
Sure enough within fifteen minutes after my friend showed up the off shores had reached around the corner to the main break and we both were on it. And, because everybody had left earlier we had the place to ourselves.
D.R.
A good way to pass the time when you’re waiting for surf.My friend Mac and I with our guitars at Salt Pond.
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