I think I’ve said this before… in the old days, like the sixties, most guys had just one board. In perspective there was not much to choose from when the only surfboard was a long board.
As well, when surfboards began to rapidly change most guys only had one board. We didn’t keep them to long though. Selling a board off to buy another newer design every three or five months was normal.
But today with all the different designs how many boards do you need? For a number of years here in Ventura I had a regular tri fin and a single fin long board. Now I’ve got a 9’4, 9’1 and 9’0 in long boards, a 8’0 mid length, a 7’0 stubbie and a 7’0 hull. Do I need all these? No. Do I ride them all? Well… not at the same time! But yes, depending on conditions and mood. I do have a couple other boards but they stay dry.
A week or so ago while surfing one afternoon I found Mary Osborne out in the line up. We got to talking about surfboards… of course. Apparently she has a number of boards some she doesn’t ride but won’t unload them. She said “ Surfboards are like shoes. Women need a lot of shoes. I have a lot of surfboards, I may not ride some of them but, I’ve got options.”
Some people collect boards. Some have a lot because they want to try different designs. And, once you have a number of boards you have trading stock to try newer or different designs.
But now days I think most surfers have two or three boards. If you only ride short boards you’ll have an every day board and a step up maybe. If you only ride long boards you’ll have a cruiser and a performance board. If you ride both long and short you may have a fish and a tanker or who knows how many different styles, shapes and sizes?
Now compared to 45 years ago, you’ve got options.
D.R.
3 comments:
Dennis
Options are great but there is something to be said for adjusting your performance on single board in varying conditions.
Large waves to small waves it great to play with your stance, style and approach and possibly find that new sweet spot on that old board that you didn’t even know existed. If the boards right taking it to some unknowns can really expand your entire pallet.
Not to say various boards are not fun but just another thought on the conversation.
"Love your blog"
~Miller
Brielle NJ
I agree. Having one board and figuring it out in varying conditions is a good thing. Those that have surfed for many years did just that. Now we have options including the option of sticking with one board.
Thanks for your comment.
D.R.
Well a surfer can have only ride one board for every two feet, but it is nice to have options as long is it doesnt get in the way of having fun. I guess I'd fall into the fish/longboard category (most of the time) and that's kept me happy the last few years. I'm kinda working on being able to ride a regular thruster again that I've had sitting here that I've never ridden. I've gotten so used to fuller noses, it feels really foreign paddling a board that is so pointed. Hopefully I'll get used to it again. It did dawn on me recently that how diverse surfboards have become. The choices available now are so much more than say 10-15 yrs. ago when a 6'2" thruster was state of the art. Now, you can stand up paddle a 12' beast down to a 3/4" thick oiled piece of wood alaia. Whatever the case, its still you, your board and a piece of wax.
Take care,
Derek
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