Learning to surf, a shapers view post 8, or something I’m not sure.

Once you have learned to surf.. that is you can catch waves, stand up, turn and maneuver at least to some extent and actually ride some waves without falling off your board it’s probably safe to say you’ve learned to surf. Maybe you could say you’re an intermediate or advanced beginner.

But do we ever really stop learning? Well yes and no… you may not continue to advance in your surfing skills but you should continue to learn things that are part of the surfing experience. Like knowing when the conditions are suitable for a decent go out. Tides, weather and wind conditions. How your favorite breaks work in different conditions…. There is a lot more to surfing than paddling out and catching waves that when you first start out you have no clue about. But as your time at the beach accumulates your knowledge of the oceans moods should increase.

One of the things that surfers learn now that you didn’t need to know as much when I started surfing is positioning. Sure you need to know positioning as it relates to a line up… knowing where to take off from but, now days it’s nice if you also learn positioning in a crowded line up. Moving around in the pack so you actually can get a few ‘at bats’ will help your wave count. The more waves you ride the more chance you get to try more and more advanced maneuvers. The more waves you ride the more you learn what your capabilities are and how far you can advance.

I realized something this past week about wave count as it related to my own surfing. I’ve been back from Hawaii… on the main land now for four years. Since I’ve been back I’ve surfed longer boards and have focused on how those boards work. Now when the surf has enough juice I’ll ride a shorter board but because I’ve not ridden a shorter more progressive board since leaving Hawaii I’ve forgotten the possibilities of shorter equipment. With out a good solid wave count it takes some time to regain lost abilities and maneuvers of surfing equipment you haven’t used for a time.

So, wave count is important to learning and relearning or regaining forgotten abilities. The more waves you ride the better. The more quality waves you ride the better your odds of advancing your abilities.

D.R.

Travis Riley