I knew there was surf, I saw lines on my way back to the house after picking up my mother in law for our Christmas dinner. At that point it was late morning and a beautiful sunny day in California. I purposely took the route back to the house so I would have a good vantage point at the top of the hill a few blocks up the road from my house where you can see if there are any lines wrapping around the point. Yeah… surf!
After I got back in the house I told my wife I was going down to the beach and look at the surf. When I returned and sat down on the couch picking up a magazine… Surfers Journal… Suzi turns to me and asks “ how’s the surf?” “ It’s really good!” I respond and she says “ are you going to go surf or just sit there reading that magazine?” I should file this post under ‘ I’m a lucky guy ‘.
I got my wetsuit, put it on, grabbed a board put, it in the truck, jumped in the truck, drove to the point, parked and was in the water within 15 minutes of that question!
There were a fair number of people enjoying the day along the promenade and a pleasant number of people in the lineup enjoying some head high sets on a beautiful sunny California Christmas day.
After surfing and going to the train station to pick up my friend Jon from Kauai who came out for a visit we settled into our dinner then the day came to a close.
Happy Holidays!
D.R.
Christmas day 2009... Ventura.
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