There has been one or two swells come along every week since some time in October seems like. So what usually happens when we get a lot of surf? The crowds thin out.
One morning this past week I thought I’d woke up in the past. I got a late start for the morning and didn’t get down for the daily surf check until about 9 a.m. I figured when I got down to inside point there most likely wasn’t much surf because there were so many parking spaces available on the street.
Surprise number one… the surf had picked up again, there were over head sets.
Surprise number two… there was a grand total of 4 guys in the water from the top of the point all the way down inside.
What? Someone see a shark?
I rubbed my eyes. Am I still asleep? I’m dreaming… that’s it. Then I was talking in my sleep. There were a few guys checking the surf that I normally don’t see at the point so we got to talking, about how strange it was that there were so few guys in the water, with surf like what we were seeing!
That particular swell was short, by the end of the day it was much smaller and not as clean. But then only two days later another swell shows up. That was Friday, today there was still surf. This afternoon there was a very light crowd in the water, a Sunday after noon no less.
I talked with a friend who had just come in from surfing and was walking back up the promenade as I was checking the conditions for my go out. He said “I think this is the best year I’ve ever seen, there has been so much surf”! He was stoked walking back to his car after yet another day of good surf.
It’s nice when there is enough surf to satisfy the surfing population. Enough waves that everyone gets their fill, gets tired and has had enough. It’s nice to look at good surf and think maybe you woke up on that particular day and some how it’s January 1992 again.
Dreamer.
D.R.
Kauai, at a spot you can’t get out when it’s like this. I took the shot with the crazy tourists in the fame for perspective. Nice left.
2 comments:
Aloha Bruddah Dennis,
It was quite a shock to hear from you this morning after all these years! It was good to hear from you I'll tell my brother Lance and Max that I spoke to you. I haven't had the chance to talk to you before you left Kauai, I got your phone # now and I'll keep in touch. The last board you made for me while you were at Hawaiian Blades (6'0") still no can beat! My current quiver from shapers like JC, Dennis Pang, Glen Pang, Al Merrick, Bushman, Cole are "Magic Boards" but that last board is still hard to beat.
That pix you posted looks like west*^%#* I hope u didn't have to save those tourist? Lots of tourist drown every year during the winter swells they ignore the posted signs.
Anyway, it was nice hearing from you and I'll definitly keep in touch!
A Hui Hou!
Vaughn
I was so happy to reach you today! Thanks again for your help Vaughn.
No, didn't need to save those guys, but I remember thinking they were nuts to be in the water. I think that picture was taken just before Christmas in '95.
D.R.
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