Most of the time surfing for me is something that gets worked into whatever is going on during the day.
For instance, I check the surf in the morning during the week and if there is enough decent surf I’ll try to get a surf in by taking a break from work at some point during the day. Hopefully when the tide is optimum and the wind hasn’t blown the surf out. Of course from April through September it’s easier to get some surf in because the days are longer.
On week ends I’ll stop what ever I’m doing… usually something around the house, and sometimes sneak off to surf. But for a weekend surf it needs to be pretty decent surf and or a really nice day because I’ll be one more guy in the crowded lineup. How needs that?
Rarely do I ever have a good ole fashioned surf day. Where all you do is go to the beach to hang and surf. I used to do that all the time when I was young… now I’ve got other things to do. But that doesn’t mean I wish I could spend a day at the beach surfing or go on a day surf trip. It does happen from time to time. Last year I went on an Island trip. And next week I’ll spend a few days on a camping/surf trip with my son.
A couple months ago I lent some boards to three guys that went on a trip to Baja. With my boards and their boards between the them they had about a dozen boards. All they did was find a spot to surf set up camp and surf until they headed off to another spot…. To surf some more. I’m sure after some time doing that it would get tiring… at some point you’ve got to come home.
But still, having nothing to do but surf… How could you not like that!
D.R.
For instance, I check the surf in the morning during the week and if there is enough decent surf I’ll try to get a surf in by taking a break from work at some point during the day. Hopefully when the tide is optimum and the wind hasn’t blown the surf out. Of course from April through September it’s easier to get some surf in because the days are longer.
On week ends I’ll stop what ever I’m doing… usually something around the house, and sometimes sneak off to surf. But for a weekend surf it needs to be pretty decent surf and or a really nice day because I’ll be one more guy in the crowded lineup. How needs that?
Rarely do I ever have a good ole fashioned surf day. Where all you do is go to the beach to hang and surf. I used to do that all the time when I was young… now I’ve got other things to do. But that doesn’t mean I wish I could spend a day at the beach surfing or go on a day surf trip. It does happen from time to time. Last year I went on an Island trip. And next week I’ll spend a few days on a camping/surf trip with my son.
A couple months ago I lent some boards to three guys that went on a trip to Baja. With my boards and their boards between the them they had about a dozen boards. All they did was find a spot to surf set up camp and surf until they headed off to another spot…. To surf some more. I’m sure after some time doing that it would get tiring… at some point you’ve got to come home.
But still, having nothing to do but surf… How could you not like that!
D.R.
Matt Riley in Baja on his DR fish.
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