To the surfer a well shaped wave is a thing of beauty.

We had a nice 4th of July here in Southern California. The forth is always a good day but when there’s surf it’s much better. The sun busted through the gray this afternoon in Ventura, as well we had light winds at the beach which means the surf was good all day.

I knew a swell was forecast but was busy at the house most of the day. Not until making a run to the beach around 4 this afternoon did I get a chance to see how nice the surf was. I watched for about 5 or 10 minutes then went straight back home and got my gear.

When you see nice looking waves it’s really hard not to want to surf. And surf I did. Even though I caught some nice set waves just being in the water and seeing these nice head high plus waves hitting the reef looking so good. Sure you want to ride them, but seeing them march toward the reef, standing up and spilling toward the beach with such a clean face peeling down the line…. The waves looked so good.

After a couple hours I took a wave down inside and called it good for the day. I climbed out of the water and up toward my car. Then just stood there with my board in my arm watching clean set waves breaking up and down the beach… many not ridden… though I knew I wasn’t going to go back out, I thought about it. The beauty of the waves stopped me in my tracks.

I really doesn’t matter what kind of wave you see… Clean peeling point waves, nice beach breaks with A-frame peaks popping up and down the beach, a wave standing up and bowling over a reef. Left hander, right hander, it just doesn’t matter, when the surfer sees a clean ride able wave it is a thing of beauty.

D.R.

Photo by David Pu'u