As I mentioned in a post last month the evolution of the surfboard was performance driven, and in the sixties it started with the fin. 

There was another time that surfboards made a big change around the fin. But in this case it was fins.  The tri fin, I think originally called a thruster that got surfboards changing about 1980.

I remember my first tri fin. Back then I wasn't sure where guys were setting their fins and for some reason I didn't go on any hunt to find out what was considered good. I believe that first tri fin was 6'3.  After shaping it I fussed about where I'd like the fins set.  The consideration was how far off the tail the back fin would be, how far up from the back fin the side fins would be, the distance off the rail the side fins should be as well as how much toe and cant the side fins would need.

That's enough to think about, or stress about. Back then the fins were glassed on so if you needed to make a change after the fact it could be done. A hassle, but doable.  After some lengthy internal debate I made my decision marked and set the fins, finished the board and went for a test drive.

My friend and surf buddy told me my surfing improved immediately with my new board.  I wasn't sure what that meant, but I was happy with how the board surfed and it was definitely way different than what I'd been surfing and put me on the wave face in places I hadn't been. 

Then one day I got a really fun day at inside pipe ( in Ventura ) with the  place pretty much to myself.  I was having a great time but was puzzled that the board would lose it's edge sometimes while pumping a high line.

It took some thought but after that go out and looking at my fin placement I realized the fins were too far off the rails.

I never did reset those fins and eventually got rid of the board. But all the boards after had better placement. I should have kept that one because it was my first tri fin... another one I let get away.

I wonder where that board is now...

D.R.         

A new 67

a new Easter egg