Man, was it hot in So. Cal. this past week. Actually been hot for the past 2 weeks. Ventura on the beach was right at 90 degrees Thursday 5/15. 

Maybe sometimes in the early fall we see that kind of heat and then only for a couple three days. But, in May? Not... My shaping bay one day went from 70 degrees at 9 in the morning to just under 90 degrees an hour later. At that point all I could think about was going to the beach. Which I did. Small surf but cool in the water.

The hot weather brought on memories of my teen years being land locked inland in the summer months, hot, dry and even with a swimming pool in the back yard going to the beach was all I wished for.  A stroll to the local Dairy Queen was good but no where as good as getting to the beach.

Most of the time when the weather is hot the surf is not... or at least pretty small.  And really there isn't any thing better than pulling out the traditional long board, putting on a short wet suit ( water temps were upper 50's during the heat wave ) and having a cool fun go out.  The big boards catch everything, time your turn let that little wave stand up in front of you and step to the nose.

I learned how to nose ride as a teenager.  It's just as fun some 45 years later.

D.R

Travis Riley having fun