Wednesday, April 30, 2025

On my web site at the top of the surfboards page second paragraph reads…

All the events that transpired in the development and process of designing and making each of the different models I have give each board a unique story.  We all have a story to tell, and so do my surfboards

Several weeks ago I got to talking with a long time customer of mine about one of the boards he had put up for sale. It was first put at Wave Front Surf Shop then was at Ventura Surf Shop. I’m not sure if someone bought the board at Wave Front and shortly there after took the board to VSS to sell.

Well a guy, John, whom I’m familiar with bought the board from VSS and contacted me for some information about the board, which I’m always happy to provide.

When I was talking with Mike, the person I made the board for about the board, he told me the story of how we came up with the color for the board. So, I past that story on to John.

So this particular surfboard has been developing it’s own story. Memories from each person that has had the board.  When surfing, how the board was made, where the boards has been.


That’s the idea behind the paragraph on my web site.

This week I got an e-mail from someone inquiring about a board I made back in 1986. I honestly could not remember the board at all but because of the date on the board and the label I could determine where the board was shaped and tell Ryan, the person with the board, it’s place in my own storey of shaping that particular model. And that model’s significance in surfboard history from Morey-Pope. As it’s a reissued of one of the popular boards just before the surfboard evolution period.

I’m sure that board being as old as it is has a lot of stories to tell. One would be… where has it been all this time. Ryan said “I found it on the curb. Someone was throwing it away.” Ryan is planning to clean it and patch it up for his son and his son’s friend. So the board will live another day.


That board was made during a time when I subcontracted the laminating process. As well, that particular model is typically done with a tinted lamination. This 1986 one has a painted color job. It was also made before I had the Label for that model made. Have no recollection of who it was made for but for sure was a custom order. 

This brings to mind this blog post. https://drsurfboards.blogspot.com/2020/01/  And the story of another surfboard. Look at all the places it has been… stories for sure.

D.R.

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