The memories of a lost surf spot live on. If you’ve had good
times at a surf spot those memories can live on for a long time, if not a life
time.
When I worked at the Morey-Pope shop on Front street in Ventura my shaping bay was on the back side of
the building that had a sliding door to the outside that was typically left open.
From my shaping bay looking out the open door was a perfect view of the peak on
the south east side of the pier.
All day long while working I could see if there was surf,
what the conditions were like and see guys ride the waves that were there. If I
still worked in that old shaping bay the view would be there but the surf
wouldn’t, because the spot doesn’t break anymore. Maybe every once in awhile it
will have a ride able wave though hardly ever.
Just above the pier on the other side was the original “C”
street break. That break which was right at the end of California street is no more either. Sure You may go to Ventura to surf “C” street but where you actually
surf isn’t where the “C” street break was. What is now typically called The
Cove or The Point or inside Point isn’t where “C” street was.
If you’re going to Ventura to surf you’ll get off the freeway at California Street.
So surfing Ventura has evolved into surfing “C” street.
There a a couple other spots that have been lost up the coast
from Ventura about 10 minuets. A place Called Tanks
and the more famous spot Stanley’s.
I recently spent a few weeks on Hawaii Island in Hilo. While there I visited Orchid Land Surf
Shop a couple times. https://www.orchidlandsurfshop.com Stan
Lawrence, the proprietor, has been a resident and surfer on the island for over
50 years. He’s recently published a book. Kalapana, Reflections of Lost
Waves, Where he tells the stories of the surf spots on the island that had
been lost from lava flows from the island volcano in 1990, some 12 to 18
different spots. Some called world class at that.
We’ve lost some surf spots in the Ventura. Thinking about what it’s like to see a
dozen tropical location surf spots disappear after surfing them as part of your
daily life for 20 years?
The saying ‘Only a surfer knows the feeling’. Only a surfer
could know the heart break of seeing your favorite surf spot disappear right
before you eyes.
One of the stories in his book Stan tells of surfing one of
his favorite spots called Drainpipe. Sitting in the lineup and seeing a
thousand foot fountain of lava erupting above Kalapana “sending a red and black
wall of destruction toward us…. By the time we came in from the water , the
slippers we had left near a tree had been burned up”.
There are some serious memories there. Take a deep breath and
think about what that’s like.
D.R.
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