Saturday, May 31, 2025

 The memories of a lost surf spot live on. If you’ve had good times at a surf spot those memories can live on for a long time, if not a life time.

When I worked at the Morey-Pope shop on Front street in Ventura my shaping bay was on the back side of the building that had a sliding door to the outside that was typically left open. From my shaping bay looking out the open door was a perfect view of the peak on the south east side of the pier. 

All day long while working I could see if there was surf, what the conditions were like and see guys ride the waves that were there. If I still worked in that old shaping bay the view would be there but the surf wouldn’t, because the spot doesn’t break anymore. Maybe every once in awhile it will have a ride able wave though hardly ever.

Just above the pier on the other side was the original “C” street break. That break which was right at the end of California street is no more either. Sure You may go to Ventura to surf “C” street but where you actually surf isn’t where the “C” street break was. What is now typically called The Cove or The Point or inside Point isn’t where “C” street was.

If you’re going to Ventura to surf you’ll get off the freeway at California Street.  So surfing Ventura has evolved into surfing “C” street.

There a a couple other spots that have been lost up the coast from Ventura about 10 minuets. A place Called Tanks and the more famous spot Stanley’s.   

I recently spent a few weeks on Hawaii Island in Hilo. While there I visited Orchid Land Surf Shop a couple times. https://www.orchidlandsurfshop.com    Stan Lawrence, the proprietor, has been a resident and surfer on the island for over 50 years. He’s recently published a book. Kalapana, Reflections of Lost Waves, Where he tells the stories of the surf spots on the island that had been lost from lava flows from the island volcano in 1990, some 12 to 18 different spots. Some called world class at that.


We’ve lost some surf spots in the
Ventura. Thinking about what it’s like to see a dozen tropical location surf spots disappear after surfing them as part of your daily life for 20 years?

The saying ‘Only a surfer knows the feeling’. Only a surfer could know the heart break of seeing your favorite surf spot disappear right before you eyes.

One of the stories in his book Stan tells of surfing one of his favorite spots called Drainpipe. Sitting in the lineup and seeing a thousand foot fountain of lava erupting above Kalapana “sending a red and black wall of destruction toward us…. By the time we came in from the water , the slippers we had left near a tree had been burned up”.

There are some serious memories there. Take a deep breath and think about what that’s like.

D.R.

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