Learning to surf a shapers view post 4

I’ve said this before, beginners should not go out when the surf is head high or more. I think I’ll change that to waist high. If you don’t know how to catch a wave and stand up you shouldn’t be in surf over waist high. Why? Because you can hurt yourself and others, damage equipment and generally be a problem in the water.

This past Thursday and Friday we’ve had a small south swell that by Friday afternoon had some slightly over head sets. Both afternoons I was in the water there were complete novices in the lineup.

Thursday I was at a spot that is not a beginner wave, not an easy spot to surf even when the waves are small and unless you can get to your feet and turn your board in the direction the wave is breaking you will go a short distance to a rocky beach. There were three guys and a gal in the water and only one of them knew what they were doing… a little bit anyway. They seemed to be enjoying themselves but it was clear that the one guy had gotten the others to follow him to the beach.

If you’re going to take your friends surfing that don’t know how to surf take them to a place where they won’t get in the way of others in the water.

If you're going to take your friends surfing take them to a place where they won’t get beat up on rocks. A sand beach is better.

If you’re going to take your friends surfing find them surfboards that will float them well enough to paddle around without looking like a fish that’s flapping around on the deck of a boat. You shouldn’t be paddling with you legs, feet and elbows.

Ok, Friday afternoon the surf had sets of head high and better. I was stoked for the chance to work the Stubbie Qaud in some nice racy waves at inside point. After I was out for 20 minutes or so paddling back to the lineup I notice this guy on a soft top that just didn’t look right. He was paddling for waves in the wrong spot and of course not catching anything. Oh well, another novice I thought.

Maybe five or ten minutes later as I’m traveling down the line of one of the set waves and straighten out on the inside wall off there goes the soft top and rider still laying on his board. From out of no where in a split second down the face of the wave, white water chasing him, he slides right over the top of my board while I’m standing on it. I was able to angle out from under him and get away… lucky that. I could have fallen on top of him and who knows what could have become of the two of us and our boards.

You see, when you get in sizeable surf and don’t know what you are doing and don’t know how to catch a wave the wave will catch you, usually at the most inopportune time when someone can get hurt.

It will take a lot of time in the water to get to the place where you can do what is being done in the below picture. But you’ve got to get started right and stay on the right path. Advance one step at a time, be safe and those around you will be safe too.

D.R.

A frame grab of Travis Riley filmed by his brother Matt surfing their dads 15 year old D.R. Penetrator.