The last day of the year.... the surfer goes surfing.

 

This year for the Ventura area anyway was mostly flat since summer.  There usually isn't that much surf in the summer anyway but this fall was very small until Thanksgiving day. The Thanksgiving day swell had some size but it was only surf able for a few hours in the morning before the weather got to it. But since then we've had a small swell come through about once or twice a week.

 

So we've had some surf with very nice conditions for the past 4 days. So why not surf the last day of the year? Who knows maybe I'll surf the first day of the new year as well.

 

The thing about not having much surf is that when it does come the crowds show up too. And, when the weather is good... and warm, like it's been here the crowds don't hold back. When I was in the water today I saw the daughter of an long time friend. She said her dad doesn't surf anymore because of the crowds. Sad.

 

Now that I don't live a few blocks from the point I don't get the chance to check the surf at a moments notice or know when conditions turn favorable and get to the beach before the crowds can. So the last few times I've surfed when the surf was good and so was the weather the crowds were pretty healthy too.  I can see how the old timers would be temped to give it up.

 

I'm not ready to give it up. So here's to a new year and hopefully a year full of good surf and lots of it!

 

Happy new year!

 

D.R.

 



 

This board was made for a Christmas  present... nice.

When you are in the water when there is surf with size especially when you don't get in sizeable surf to often it can be a bit hectic. It will keep you alert, moving, thinking and sometimes a little on edge. It can take a fair amount of water time in good solid surf to become more relaxed and confident.

 

I read this article on Surfline this week about Mick Fanning and Kelly Slater going into the Pipe Masters.  What was needed for Mick to win the world title and how Slater would play into the event.

 

In the article was this picture. I did the five finger discount by taking a picture of my computer screen, hopefully the picture police won't come after me. You can read the article and see the picture in it here.

 

What this picture captures is 2 pros in the field. Both guys just a couple seconds outside at least a 6 foot (Hawaiian) wave...maybe larger. Mick is stretched at the top looking at what's out side and coming at them. Kelly is maybe 8 feet away and slightly inside of Mick but looking ashore, most likely looking at the score board, reading the numbers to figure out how the scoring has progressed. 

 

Both guys know what they are doing and have done it enough to be in control of their environment at that instant. What you can't see is what is on the out side of the wave in the picture.  As close to the pitching lip of this wave as they are a wave on the out side of this one could be larger and ready to give the both of them a beating, maybe not.  But either way they are alert, moving, thinking, contemplating their moves and positions. Totally immersed in their element.

 Only a surfer knows the feeling.

D.R.

I've been working through picture files this past week and came across the below pictures.  The file date on these pictures is 15 Feb. 2008... so over five years ago now.

 

This is a 9'8 Imperial that I did a special abstract rail and blue tint bottom inlay on... just for fun.  All the color work was done in the lamination. A one step at a time process that took 5 separate  lam set ups.  Then the board was hot coated, sanded, pin lined, glossed and finally polished.... as usual.

 

After I took these pictures the board went to the store and a few days later was sold... I only got to enjoy looking at the board during the short time I had it to take pictures... well yeah, I saw it through the time I worked on it like any other board, but after a board is completed they go on their way.

 

Reminiscing.

  

D.R.