The last day of the year.... the surfer goes surfing.

 

This year for the Ventura area anyway was mostly flat since summer.  There usually isn't that much surf in the summer anyway but this fall was very small until Thanksgiving day. The Thanksgiving day swell had some size but it was only surf able for a few hours in the morning before the weather got to it. But since then we've had a small swell come through about once or twice a week.

 

So we've had some surf with very nice conditions for the past 4 days. So why not surf the last day of the year? Who knows maybe I'll surf the first day of the new year as well.

 

The thing about not having much surf is that when it does come the crowds show up too. And, when the weather is good... and warm, like it's been here the crowds don't hold back. When I was in the water today I saw the daughter of an long time friend. She said her dad doesn't surf anymore because of the crowds. Sad.

 

Now that I don't live a few blocks from the point I don't get the chance to check the surf at a moments notice or know when conditions turn favorable and get to the beach before the crowds can. So the last few times I've surfed when the surf was good and so was the weather the crowds were pretty healthy too.  I can see how the old timers would be temped to give it up.

 

I'm not ready to give it up. So here's to a new year and hopefully a year full of good surf and lots of it!

 

Happy new year!

 

D.R.

 



 

This board was made for a Christmas  present... nice.