When you are in the water when there is surf with size especially when you don't get in sizeable surf to often it can be a bit hectic. It will keep you alert, moving, thinking and sometimes a little on edge. It can take a fair amount of water time in good solid surf to become more relaxed and confident.

 

I read this article on Surfline this week about Mick Fanning and Kelly Slater going into the Pipe Masters.  What was needed for Mick to win the world title and how Slater would play into the event.

 

In the article was this picture. I did the five finger discount by taking a picture of my computer screen, hopefully the picture police won't come after me. You can read the article and see the picture in it here.

 

What this picture captures is 2 pros in the field. Both guys just a couple seconds outside at least a 6 foot (Hawaiian) wave...maybe larger. Mick is stretched at the top looking at what's out side and coming at them. Kelly is maybe 8 feet away and slightly inside of Mick but looking ashore, most likely looking at the score board, reading the numbers to figure out how the scoring has progressed. 

 

Both guys know what they are doing and have done it enough to be in control of their environment at that instant. What you can't see is what is on the out side of the wave in the picture.  As close to the pitching lip of this wave as they are a wave on the out side of this one could be larger and ready to give the both of them a beating, maybe not.  But either way they are alert, moving, thinking, contemplating their moves and positions. Totally immersed in their element.

 Only a surfer knows the feeling.

D.R.